I live in rural Oregon. Every neighbor has their own 1.5 horsepower deep well pumps and many have 5 hp air compressors. Over 11 years, I have lost 2 commercial quality VHS editing decks and several electronic ballasts for 4 ft florescent tube lights. Just last week, the utility pulled the fuse to my streets 12kv primary, this killed yet another VHS decks switching power supply ( I was watch the video passing thru the deck at the time (no tape inserted) ). My power provider has a capacitor bank about 30 miles from me. As a result there are many hundreds of transformers distributed over those wires. It is my belief that when power is lost from a blown fuse (or switch killed) on the 12 KV primary line, those transformers deliver a huge transit spike into an open load (infinite impedance) and the homes electronics are forced to dissipate that spike. Additionally, the capacitor bank acting as a storage battery is a low impedance source which reduces ringing. However, due to 30 miles of wire (60 miles round trip) the inductance added by said wire raises that low AC impedance to a point where ringing occurs and spike cannot be "snubbed" by the capacitors. In other words, my home is getting nasty spikes because my power source has a high "internal resistance". I liken this to a car battery with a calcified cell. One ohm of internal resistance can prevent the engines starter from receiving the 300 amps it needs and those amps across one ohm internal resistor, turns to heat in the effected cell. I realize the capacitor bank is calculated for a power factor of one. I suggest removing some of those caps and distributing over the length of that 30 miles. The net capacitance remains the same but now the "battery" is closer to me and the ringing as well as the line inductance should be lower. Giving me cleaner power, right? I'm looking at this problem from a switching power supply point of view. Since the power company is not going to give a damn, any suggesting on adding my own caps? I suspect this will change my power factor and cause the wattmeter to run faster (charge more $$) than it should. MOV's and Transorbs self-destruct, but I use them. I start off with a whole house unit that sits below the 200 amp main breaker it looks like a 220v breaker with a short green pigtail going to neutral and earth ground, this sit on the meter pole 60 feet from the house. Each computer & entertainment center has an UPS. I also checked every screw in the breaker boxes to make sure they're tight.
- posted
18 years ago