10" Atlas lathe purchase trash/treasure?

I am about to purcahse an atlas lathe in relatively good condition. I work at a machine shop and one of the older gentleman that works there mentioned htat he had a lathe just sitting around and he wanted to get rid of it. So i went to look at it the other day.... heres the story.

He got it from someone in the city that barely used it about 15 years ago, he never set it up and never used it. He oiled it, and covered it and let it sit in a friends garage where they did body work on cars.

2 years ago he had to move it, so it ended up in his yard (yes in his yard) under a tarp with the chip pan over it to keep out the rain. This concerned me at first but i thought what the hell, its worth looking at...

I got there, and we tramped through the grass to where it was sitting, pulled off the blue tarp ( in decent shape) and pulled off the canvas over it, the chip pan and etc. To my surprise it was in relatively good shape for sitting outside. IT was an atlas 10" with the quickchange gearbox and tapered roller bearings. dont know the serial number cause i forgot to look. Having been oiled and put in a shop, the dust had adhered to the oil, and hardened to the consistancy of a latex paint or a cosmoline type coating. I took my fingernail and scraped it away and underneath the ways were shiny and smothe!!! There was some surface rust on the chuck, the original toolpost, tailstock and the chuck in the tailstock. had a piece of scotch- brite with me and it took care of it with no problem. The crossslide was free and easy to turn, no noticeable backlash, the saddle was free buti didnt want to move it too much.... crabbed the chuck and shook it as hard as i could to see if there was any play, there was none, spindle spun free, all gears looked good, well greased and intact, the spindle was shiny with no rust.

He then took me to the garage (filled with crap as many machinsts garages are, with no room for the poor lathe) and he had boxes of stuff for it, including an extra 3 jaw, 4 jaw 2 faceplates, dogs, spindle drill chuck, taper attachment, 3c or 3at collet setup with drawbar(original atlas i believe), steady and follow rest, brand new half nut(score!! lol) had the original (working) 1 phase motor mount and pulleys. so at this point im thinking, how much does he want for this thing.... He didnt know... and neither did i. I knew it wasnt worth nothing but i had no idea where to start, i had seen some similar go for upwards of 1000$ and for as little as 200.

I told him i would think about it and left. saw him at work the next day and we talked again and i told him that it would deffinately take work to get running but it was possible to do. and i finally asked, how much do you want for the damn thing cause i have no idea what to offer.... we agreed on 300$ and i am gonna pick it up sometime this week.

So, after this longwinded post i hope someone can tell me if i am in for a huge undertaking or if my investment is worth it. I am concerned with parts for this lathe even though i am sure at the moment it doesnt need any. i know many parts are available from clausing and ebay but somehow i cant see spending preemium prices for original gears made of that pot metal zmak.... has anyone rebuilt parts for these lathes by hand with better materials, or found a source for new cast iron gears?

Thanks in advance.

-Brian-

Reply to
lapoltba
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You better hurry and buy that thing or someone else will.... The attachments and accessories are worth more than the proce you are paying.

John

Reply to
John

ya thats kinda what i thought...lol i looked up the collet setup on ebay and that alone has gone for almost 300$ not to mention the taper attachment and chucks... i figured if i had to put some money into it it was worth it...

any ideas for new gears made of steel or cast iron? i have no idea what the pitch or pressure angle is on them... ive searched all over and havent been able to come up wiht much besides that they are either

16 or 18 pitch and 14.5 or 20 pressure angle. i dont even know if it would be worth it to get new ones made...

-Brian-

Reply to
lapoltba

Sounds like a great deal to me! I have the 12" inch version, actually Craftsman brand but pretty much the same lathe. I was thrilled to get it for $200 even though it doesn't have the quickchange gearbox and it was a major improvement over the JET 9x20 I had before.

It's a pretty wild coincendence too because mine had also spent several years in a body shop and had that same coating on it and even had light surface rust on the bare metal parts like the chuck and such. :-) It was easy to clean and that and a good lubing was really all it needed.

Even if it turns out that there's some major damage or rust somewhere, the quickchange gearbox alone will sell for what you paid for the whole lathe on eBay so I don't see how you could go wrong.

Best Regards, Keith Marshall snipped-for-privacy@progressivelogic.com

"I'm not grown up enough to be so old!"

Reply to
Keith Marshall

Why are you worrying about gears. It has a quick change gearbox. If you take any reasonable care of the machine the gears will last forever. worse case you can make new gears or have them water jetted out of plate. Then send them out and get them carborized.

John

Reply to
John

idk, i just heard alot of bad things about the zmak wearing badly, i realize the chage gears are probably steel but the top-end is zmak right? regardless they looked good and im sure they wouldnt need to be replaced any time soon.

Are there any modifications/improvements that can be done?

Reply to
lapoltba

Scrape the logan name off and change it to Hardinge. :)

John

Reply to
John

**scratches head***
Reply to
lapoltba

Don't sweat the gears. There are plenty for sale on Ebay, but I have a

10" Atlas that I got used in 1972. I use it a lot and the gears are still just fine. Oil them before every use. With a QC gearbox, you can put the whole gear train in neutral when you aren't using leadscrew. With my non-QC lathe, they run all the time and they still are good.

Pete Stanaitis

PS: Gee, a guy just yesterday delivered a 12" Atlas/Craftsman Commercial lathe with QC gearbox and all basic tooling to me for free as a permanent loaner! He had stored it at the shop of a friend who is an auto mechanic!!! What's going on here?

-------------------------

snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

Reply to
spaco

Don't you write for Penthouse Forum?

Reply to
Richard J Kinch

You should jump on it right now. I joined this Yahoo group shortly after purchasing my Atlas 10" and I have found it to be quite helpful.

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One of the first things I did was to replace the lantern style tool post with a more rigid Phase II tool post. Steve

Reply to
Up North

Snip..

Your only mistake was not having $500 cash in your pocket when you went over so you could seal the deal.

Reply to
Jim Stewart

One last comment about Atlas lathes in general to people who are shopping: The 3 jaw chuck. I had my lathe for years and I cussed out the 3 jaw every time I used it. I was lucky to get work centered within

6 thou TIR. It's either shim it, or use the 4 jaw. So, I finally broke down and bought a 6" 3 jaw set-true chuck. It cost several huncred dollars, but was the best investment I ever made! I can now easily get within a thou or two repeatably. It checks out at 0.0004" TIR 3" out from the jaws! The reason I write this is that I just got a lathe on loan and it has a (what I'd call) light duty 6" 3 jaw chuck. The instructions that came with it say that it was "---manufactured to hold 0.005" TIR 1" from the jaws---". Wow---- no wonder I had trouble with a well used one.

Moral of the story: get a good 3 jaw chuck, a "set-true".

Pete Stanaitis

snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

Reply to
spaco

Look Brian...normally you post this sort of thing under the heading "Tool Gloat".

Ive got the rights to this sort of schtick already copywrited. Keep it up and you will owe me a royalty.

Well done!

Gunner

"Try thinking of the Libertarian Party as a rolled-up newspaper, useful in making the Republican puppy (I've given up on the Democratic bitch) go where he's supposed to -- not on that beautiful antique carpet we call the Constitution." -- L. Neil Smith, Bill Clinton's Reichstag Fire

Reply to
Gunner

Or learn how to set up a four jaw. I wouldn't have a three jaw on a lathe unless I was doing production work. Most work I do has to have aluminum shims under the jaws so the piece is not marred by the jaws. The four jaw is easy enough to set up once you get the hang of it. A three jaw is good if you have some sets of soft top jaws that you can bore. If the chuck is not worn and you are doing multiple pieces, soft jaws are the way to go. Soft jaws properly cut will give you almost no run out and repeatability.

John

Reply to
john
*gloating* :)

SO i picked it up today, it larger than i was thinking.. its actually the 54"bed. I was looking for a reference to the serial number so i could figure out when exactly it was made but coulcnt google it... S/ N is 001978 QC54

Turns out the entire thing is coated in the grime i was talking about... deff. not a bad thing as i think thats what has saved it all these years. I did however find that the ways up near the headstock are pretty worn. I have no way of telling how bad at the moment as i need to completely tear this thing down and clean/lube it. the inside of the ways (the inside edge whre the cross bracing is) is gouged a bit, looks like someone hit it with somehting from the chuck, 0r the chuck itself, should affect anything, but i ran my finger across the way surface and i can feel a 10-15 thou ridge, shaking the saddle produces a slight knocking and a bit of movement but that maybe fixable by adjusting the gibs, again, after i clean the whole deal..

also, everything is free and not siezed up but i think there is a gear missing in the quickchange, havent been able to look at it closely yet but the "A" range doesnt engage the leadscrew at all (the oethers all do) Also the longitudinal feed isnt working, i have a feeling the halfjuts are either worn badly or gummed up, probably the lattter.

Does anyone know of any step by step rebuild instructions or detailed techniques anywhere?

Reply to
lapoltba

Agreed, i dont normally use a 3 jaw for that exact reason. It came with a 3 and 4 jaw, and i will probably put the 4 jaw on and leave it only because i am used to that type of setup, i can routinely get within.0005 if i really care to take the time to do it... but usually ..001 is good enough since im gonnna turn it down anyway. The 4 jaw is also nice for model engine building as you can throw the piece in the chuck to make crankshafts and such.:)

Reply to
lapoltba

My thoughts exactly. This sounds like one of the sex stories that just keeps getting better and better.

Reply to
Gary Brady

Don't get too attached to it. Don't put too much money or work into it. The auto mechanic could want it back any time! Other than that, nice deal!

Bob

Reply to
Bob Engelhardt

Brian,

I just pickup up a very early 12" Craftsmand/Atlas. There are lots of resources out there, and parts are still availible from a few different locations. Check out the Craftsman/Atlas group on Yahoo.

Sounds like you got a pretty good deal. I wouldn't worry about the gears too much. Many many people that I have talked with say that the alloy was improved over the years, and should handle anything you throw at it so long as things are lubed correctly.

As far as your investment goes, you could part it out and make a killing on it if you wanted to. The handwheels alone are going for well over 30$ on eBay

Reply to
Shane Wolfe

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