AIRCRAFT QUALITY BOLTS

None of my spars have ever been welded. The spreader fittings, mast head crane. etc were always bolted.

Although there are some specialty masts that are tapered and thus welded.

No, I suspect the reason for 6061-T6 is because the spars are almost always extruded.

And the stable temper of T6...

And the difference in tensile strength! 5052 yields at 28k 6061 yields at 40k

GENERAL ALUMINUM INFORMATION

1100 This grade is commercially pure aluminum. It is soft and ductile and has excellent workability. It is ideal for applications involving intricate forming because it work hardens more slowly than other alloys. It is the most weldable of aluminum alloys, by any method. It is non heat-treatable. It has excellent resistance to corrosion and is widely used in the chemical and food processing industries. It responds well to decorative finishes which make it suitable for giftware. 2011 This is the most free-machining of the common aluminum alloys. It also has excellent mechanical properties. Thus, it is widely used for automatic screw machine products in parts requiring extensive machining. 2014 & 2017 The 2017 alloy combines excellent machinability and high strength with the result that it is one of the most widely used alloys for automatic screw machine work. It is a tough, ductile alloy suitable for heavy-duty structural parts. Its strength is slightly less than that of 2014. 2024 This is one of the best known of the high strength aluminum alloys. With its high strength and excellent fatigue resistance, it is used to advantage on structures and parts where good strength-to-weight ratio is desired. It is readily machined to a high finish. It is readily formed in the annealed condition and may be subsequently heat treated. Arc or gas welding is generally not recommended, although this alloy may be spot, seam or flash welded. Since corrosion resistance is relatively low, 2024 is commonly used with an anodized finish or in clad form (?Alclad?) with a thin surface layer of high purity aluminum. Applications: aircraft structural components, aircraft fittings, hardware, truck wheels and parts for the transportation industry. 3003 This is the most widely used of all aluminum alloys. It is essentially commercially pure aluminum with the addition of manganese which increases the strength some 20% over the 1100 grade. Thus, it has all the excellent characteristics of 1100 with higher strength. It has excellent corrosion resistance. It has excellent workability and it may be deep drawn or spun, welded or brazed. It is non heat treatable. Applications: cooking utensils, decorative trim, awnings, siding, storage tanks, chemical equipment. 5005 This alloy is generally considered to be an improved version of 3003. It has the same general mechanical properties as 3003 but appears to stand up better in actual service. It is readily workable. It can be deep drawn or spun, welded or brazed. It has excellent corrosion resistance. It is non heat-treatable. It is well suited for anodizing and has less tendency to streak or discolor. Applications same as 3003. 5052 This is the highest strength alloy of the more common non heat-treatable grades. Fatigue strength is higher than most aluminum alloys.In addition this grade has particularly good resistance to marine atmosphere and salt water corrosion. It has excellent workability. It may be drawn or formed into intricate shapes and its slightly greater strength in the annealed condition minimizes tearing that occurs in 1100 and 3003. Applications: Used in a wide variety of applications from aircraft components to home appliances, marine and transportation industry parts, heavy duty cooking utensils and equipment for bulk processing of food. 5083 & 5086 For many years there has been a need for aluminum sheet and plate alloys that would offer, for high strength welded applications, several distinct benefits over such alloys as 5052 and 6061. Some of the benefits fabricators have been seeking are greater design efficiency, better welding characteristics, good forming properties, excellent resistance to corrosion and the same economy as in other non heat-treatable alloys. Metallurgical research has developed 5083 and 5086 as superior weldable alloys which fill these needs. Both alloys have virtually the same characteristics with 5083 having slightly higher mechanical properties due to the increased manganese content over 5086. Applications: unfired pressure vessels, missile containers, heavy-duty truck and trailer assemblies, boat hulls and superstructures. 6061 This is the least expensive and most versatile of the heat-treatable aluminum alloys. It has most of the good qualities of aluminum. It offers a range of good mechanical properties and good corrosion resistance. It can be fabricated by most of the commonly used techniques. In the annealed condition it has good workability. In the T4 condition fairly severe forming operations may be accomplished. The full T6 properties may be obtained by artificial aging. It is welded by all methods and can be furnace brazed. It is available in the clad form (?Alclad?) with a thin surface layer of high purity aluminum to improve both appearance and corrosion resistance. Applications: This grade is used for a wide variety of products and applications from truck bodies and frames to screw machine parts and structural components. 6061 is used where appearance and better corrosion resistance with good strength are required. 6063 This grade is commonly referred to as the architectural alloy. It was developed as an extrusion alloy with relatively high tensile properties, excellent finishing characteristics and a high degree of resistance to corrosion. This alloy is most often found in various interior and exterior architectural applications, such as windows, doors, store fronts and assorted trim items. It is the alloy best suited for anodizing applications - either plain or in a variety of colors. 7075 This is one of the highest strength aluminum alloys available. Its strength-to weight ratio is excellent and it is ideally used for highly stressed parts. It may be formed in the annealed condition and subsequently heat treated. Spot or flash welding can be used, although arc and gas welding are not recommended. It is available in the clad (?Alclad?) form to improve the corrosion resistance with the over-all high strength being only moderately affected. Applications: Used where highest strength is needed.

And

ALUMINUM TEMPER DESIGNATIONS Temper designations of wrought aluminum alloys consist of suffixes to the numeric alloy designations. For example, in 3003-H14, 3003 denotes the alloy and ?H14? denotes the temper, or degree of hardness. The temper designation also reveals the method by which the hardness was obtained. Temper designations differ between non heat-treatable alloys and heat-treatable alloys. and their meanings are given below:

Non Heat-Treatable Alloys

The letter ?H? is always followed by 2 or 3 digits. The first digit indicates the particular method used to obtain the temper. as follows:

? Hl means strain hardened only.

? H2 means strain hardened, then partially annealed.

? H3 means strain hardened, then stabilized.

The temper is indicated by the second digit as follows:

2 1/4 hard 4 I/2 hard 6 3/4 hard 8 full hard 9 extra hard

Added digits indicate modification of standard practice.

Heat-Treatable Alloys

-F As fabricated

-O Annealed

-T Heat treated

The letter ?T? is always followed by one or more digits. These digits indicate the method used to produce the stable tempers, as follows:

-T3 Solution heat treated, then cold worked.

-T351 Solution heat treated, stress-relieved stretched, then cold worked.

-T36 Solution heat treated, then cold worked (controlled).

-T4 Solution heat treated, then naturally aged.

-T451 Solution heat treated, then stress relieved stretched.

-T5 Artificially aged only.

-T6 Solution heat treated, then artificially aged.

-T61 Solution heat treated (boiling water quench), then artificially aged.

-T651 Solution heat treated, stress-relieved stretched, then artificially aged (precipitation heat treatment).

-T652 Solution heat treated, stress relieved by compression. then artificially aged.

-T7 Solution heat treated, then stabilized.

-T8 Solution heat treated, cold worked, then artificially aged.

-T81 Solution heat treated, cold worked (controlled), then artificially aged.

-T851 Solution heat treated, cold worked, stress-relieved stretched, then artificially aged.

-T9 Solution heat treated, artificially aged, then cold worked.

-T10 Artificially aged, then cold worked.

Added digits indicate modification of standard practice.

Reply to
Richard
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Oh no John, I didn't mean to imply there was really such a grade as 'Boat Grade'. These were just some stainless parts sold at a boat shop - It was just much better than aluminum. Yes, aluminum almost immediately oxidizes but as you say is very thin and salty air can get right on through that. And these were probable the cheapest parts available as well. And as I remember I never bothered to wash it afterwards - this would have helped greatly of course.

Thanks, Bob Lowe

Reply to
Bob Lowe

Not really "specialty". Quite a few masts on, say 40+ foot boats are tapered by cutting and welding. My last boat, for example. 42 ft. deck stepped with about 25% of the top tapered. Partially I think to make more room for the jib furler. The spreader brackets were also welded to the mast, as was a bracket for the steaming light.

Reply to
John B.

Most anything is better then aluminum when exposed to salt water :-) (although I'm not sure about a 40 ft. stainless mast .......)

But the biggest problem with aluminum on boats is usually the stainless bolts and screws used to fasten it. The Australians make aluminum dinghies, often used as yacht tenders - call 'em "tinnies" like a can of beer. They are welded, or riveted using aluminum rivets and it is amazing how long they last. Providing you don't go bolting on a stainless bracket to hold the mooring rope, anyway :-)

Reply to
John B.

That was probable my problem with the electrolysis action of the two parts and put the salt air on top of that and my poor boat didn't like that one bit. The first time that I looked at the inside of the fuselage of a Japanese Zero I thought Oh my gosh, the perception that the Japanese were know for 'copying' things' sure didn't apply here. They definitely went for lightness and then it was designed for their Navy as a carrier plane, and history says that they were basically designed by German engineers brought in just for this job. One could almost see where maybe the Japanese stressed this 'lightness' part. Although it was fast, this was probable its ultimate downfall because of this lack of cockpit armor and self-sealing tanks. But back to aluminum, these planes that I saw were setting around on the Island of Yap, and after setting for more than 30 years at maybe less than 50 feet altitude and a quarter of a mile for the coast, the aluminum through out the plane was surprisingly sound looking...and that thin skin was still very hard. I have read that this was the predecessor to the Alcad (sp).

Bob Lowe

Reply to
Bob Lowe

I did quite a bit of welding on masts back in the bad old days, mostly on boats 40 feet and up as well. Halyard winch bases and radar mounts were the first things that came to mind.

Reply to
Ned Simmons

Okay Ned, I have a question...I don't know how far back your bad old days were but in the 50's when I needed some aluminum welding done I always had it done by Heliarc, as if the gas welding flux hadn't been developed yet...I really don't know this for sure. But now that I am retired my 'To Do' list has grown to a couple of life times long and I can't get everything crammed in. I have I think at least 3 gas welding outfits, the regular industrial, a mid sized venturi air type and a little Map Gas-Oxygen affair. I haven't gotten around to teaching myself how to weld aluminum. I see the flux coated gas rod and this is my question....could this be an easy way to get started on this? Or could you recommend another starting point? I don't want to bother with getting into the Mig welding area.

Thanks,

Bob Lowe

Reply to
Bob Lowe

I remember reading the above statement - cockpit armor and self sealing tanks - and it really seemed to make sense.... until I went in the A.F. and actually worked on some of these critters and found that none I worked on had armored cockpits nor self sealing tanks :-)

Reply to
John B.

That's odd - I am thinking of the WW2 type fighters and I think most of the cockpit armor was a back plate and I remember some with side plates. There was a big Good Year plant in South LA, I think on Florence Ave., that made the self-sealing tanks 24 hours a day, 7 days a week (during WW2)...but this sure doesn't mean that any you worked on had such of course. Now I am curious as to what could be the criterion. We are talking about WW2 prop planes, right?

Bob Lowe

Reply to
Bob Lowe

Don't get me wrong ...this is just something I found and is suspect of course...as people can write anything on the web, right?

"Most military aircraft now have self-sealing tanks, even if only in part, the technique as used in the Second World War."

Bob Lowe

Reply to
Bob Lowe

I'm not arguing, just saying that I never saw it. and frankly I doubt that it was a really a major factor. I was never assigned to work on "little" airplanes but I had friends that did and if there was any armor plating it must have been a bulkhead behind the seat as certainly where was nothing on either side of the cockpit, which would have limited any bullet proofing to an area of the back of a seated figure.

Reply to
John B.

I didn't really work on F-51's, about the only WW II fighters left in

1952, But they were a sexy airplane and I used to go over and visit them. I didn't do any airframe maintenance but certainly no "armor plate" was noticeable in the cockpit.

I did work on B-29's and they had no armor plate and we had one shot down off N. Japan and after a single firing pass by a MIG the A.C. elected to surrender, i.e,. drop the flaps and dive for the ground. The reason was that the first pass caused massive fuel leaks from both the inboard and outboard wing fuel tanks. So much for self sealing :-) The B-29 did have three funny inner tanks in the center wing section which might have been labeled "self sealing" but the center wing section was also the most common place for fuel leaks :-)

In fact the only people I ever heard discuss "armor plating" was some door gunners on the helicopters in Vietnam. They brought over a piece of "boiler plate" one day, and wanted us to cut seat size pieces for them to sit on.

Reply to
John B.

I learned to gas weld aluminum in 1951 and it was a bitch. My suggestion is to arc weld anything thick enough and buy a TIG for the thin stuff.

The problem with gas welding, and to some extent TIG welding aluminum is that the metal doesn't change color when heated. You are heating the parent metal, waiting for a puddle to form and suddenly the whole thing falls on the ground.

The technique is to keep poking the spot where you intend the puddle to form with the filler rod. If all goes well you will poke and a bit of rod will melt off and there's your puddle.

But it is so much easier to just use the TIG or even a plain old arc welder (with aluminum rods :-).

As an aside, not all aluminum can be welded.

Reply to
John B.

I had a business fabricating marine hardware that I eased out of beginning in 1985, so the bad old days were earlier than that. The business is still operating, the owners are former employees.

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My aluminum welding experience is limited to TIG (Heliarc, GTAW). I've only seen demo videos of gas welding aluminum online. Looks like voodoo and black magic to me, but I've heard lots of folks say the same about TIGging aluminum before they get the hang of it. Because of aluminum's high thermal conductivity it takes a lot of heat to weld it, and I imagine the practical thickness limit for gas welding is pretty low.

I'd suggest a vocational class if you want to learn TIG. It's probably a long shot expecting that you'll find an instructor that's familiar with gas welding aluminum in a local voc program, but it's worth asking. If you've already learned to gas weld steel, I'd suggest reading and viewing all the info you can find on aluminum and give it a shot on your own. What's the worst that could happen?

Reply to
Ned Simmons

I got shown how to weld aluminium with gas back in about 1985 by a welding instructor, he wasn't a real welder but taught the course and could passably gas weld aluminium. I had already taught myself to OA weld so was good at steel and I noticed that there is a subtle change in the surface appearance of the aluminium before it drops on the floor and that is when to add the filler to keep the pool under control. After about 10 minutes I was welding Al better than the instructor. Never had any issues with glare either, the flux just seemed to go water clear and wet the surface when near welding temp and I was fine with the standard gas welding filters, maybe the flux in the UK is different. Not gas welded Al for maybe 20 years now as have had TIG to use for Al but don't weld Al that often anyway.

Reply to
David Billington

Yes Ned, the Vo-Tech school is a better way, but the nearest is just over 100 miles away. I took a machinist class there because it was 6 hours every Saturday. I did talk to the Welding instructor and he is set up for 3 nights a week with no chance for a Saturday class - just my bad luck. And I can understand his philosophy - more than 2 hours probable is too much at a time...an hour class room and an hour practicing was his idea. And I have found some of those videos very helpful - I have watched a bunch. There is one guy in town that can butt-weld soft drink can aluminum with his 6,000 $ welder and it looks great but he is not set up for instructing, I tried.

Thanks,

Bob Lowe

Reply to
Bob Lowe

You need a set of cobalt glasses to see the heat when welding aluminum with gas.

Reply to
clare

Yes Ned - When I was 9 or 10 where my Dad worked they let him bring home the arc rod that had been ruined by moisture and encouraged me to 'burn it up', and I did. He could bring home a 3 inch bundle and it was gone in a week. He was the 'odd job' welder in the neighborhood and would never take a nickle. But he never had a gas welder...I just bought the regular one when I retired here 18 years ago,and I am on only my 3rd refill...so I have no need for a Mig or Tig outfit. I have the regular 240 volt Lincoln, a smaller 120 volt and I wire feed, just to tinker with really. I have done a few odd jobs here in the neighborhood...AND...I have never taken a nickle. But, I can't touch their aluminum.

Well thanks,

Bob Lowe

Reply to
Bob Lowe

Yes, a subtle change :-) The new welder doesn't usually see it ... until too late :-)

I've always sort of wondered about that. We learned using a paint on flux and the usual green lens welding goggles and never a mention of glare from the flux.

Reply to
John B.

How does that work? What colors do you see?

Reply to
John B.

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