Just busted my last tip for my Edsy Soldapullt..and before I order another one..was wondering if anyone had a usable old desoldering station collecting dust? I dont do a hell of a lot of desoldering..but I do some..mostly switches and larger bits of solder joints.
Probably more what Gunner needs than the antique I have. Clicked on your link and looked at the pictures then started scrolling the text slightly faster than I can read and this jumped out at me. "Warning: The light system will shoot straightly. Please pay more attention to yourself control time to avoid burning out."
I had to get a hot air rework station to work with surface mount parts. With solder paste, a good microscope, and keeping away from coffee I can in stall TQFP 144 parts by hand. I can also remove them. (Removal works bett er if you can get some heat into the back side of the board.)
But as I got used to it, I found myself using it on thru hole parts. And to shrink heat shrink.
I think the tool was invented by Hakko, and they still charge a fortune.
But you can find cheap chinese copies on ebay. The nozzles are completely interchangeable with Hakko.
I bought a cheap one about 3 years ago - and it has worked perfectly. I wa s running it for couple of hours a day, most every day.
It's not very portable, but if you are working at home or a shop, it's very useful.
If you want to take it on the road - it will be inconvenient.
There's is also the bulb by itself that I find handier. I've got several soldering irons with varying wattages/tips and the handheld bulb works with them all.
Then there are the various solder suckers:
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I never cared too much for them, but the girls we had doing electronic assembly loved them.
I really like the wicks too:
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There are a selection of sizes and the wick isn't reusable but when you learn how to use it the last drop of solder is gone from the joint. Sometimes the suckers leave just enough that removing multipin devices is a hassle.
Then there's the barbecue technique: heat the board up on a barbie until it's nice and bubble, then slap it on something upside down. Ot sounds primitive but if you're just salvaging components from old boards in works surprisingly well.
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