charge chest freezer

Karl Townsend fired this volley in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

That part isn't true for 134A. Many manufacturers recommend charging gas rather than liquid, even on systems requiring much less total charge than the capacity of the dispensing container.

He might have confused 'lube cans' containing both refrigerant and compressor oil.

Also, Karl, almost all refrigerators and freezers specify ONLY charging on the high-side, while the compressor is OFF. That often requires warming the can -- up to 120F.

Charges are typically small. An 18cu.ft. combo might take only 6-8oz total charge. If you cannot observe the frosting of the coils, it makes more sense to 'recover' the old charge, and use weigh-charging to get it right.

Lloyd

Thanks for the reply. Good to know I can charge conventionally.

I'm sure you're right for new installs. I don't own the equipment to do recover/weigh/recharge.

I now have a system that leaks. Need to check with it running to a set pressure number and see how much add to get back to there on a regular basis.

Karl Townsend fired this volley in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

??? Why not find the leak, and repair it?

Lloyd

This work above my pay grade. If the unit leaks too much, toss it and buy a new one.

For $18 and a few minutes' work, you could find your leak and save yourself the trouble of future refills.

That's the way I figured with my 23 year old A/C system - why bother finding the first leak?

If it leaks, find the leak and fix it , or replace it. It is ilegal to charge a system without testing it and repairing any leaks.

And for a few more bucks you can put in a sealer and fix the leak (better than 50-50 chance of the sealer working - but don't expect to discharge and recharge in the future - it's a "last ditch" attempt. If it doesn't last, you ditch it.

snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca fired this volley in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

Don't expect the 'goo' sealers to positively affect capillary-tube systems. They tend to seal up those parts, too.

I'm not a 'scrounge', generally, but when folks up and down my road throw out reefers or window ACs, I will generally pick them up and dismantle for parts -- just to have them around for family or near-neighbors' problems. It costs me nothing but the trouble to 're-dispose' of the same junk the next day.

A mile-up neighbor tossed an 18 cu.ft. Whirlpool reefer (about 6 yr old) yesterday. I trailered it to the barn, and today had to go back hat in hand, and offer it back to her -- working. 'Seems she'd gotten ripped- off by an unscrupulous repair outfit who sold her a new one because "the compressor was fried" in this one.

Well... it was... but not so badly that simply replacing the run cap didn't fix it up fine. $8.58 + $4.50 s/h for a new one, delivered tomorrow. In the meanwhile, the 'scrap' replacement cap is running it just fine. (that's what the salvaged parts are FOR! )

I hate it when folks get taken like that. The lady was nice, told me "thanks", and said to keep it. So now daughter gets a nice clean working fridge about twice the size of her little apartment job. A $13 replacement fridge in really nice condition with all the toys.

Lloyd

Those usually don't work -after- all the magic coolant has leaked out.

That's (usually) only good if the compressor hasn't been damaged by loss of coolant and oil, when you catch it on the way down rather than after it's blowing warm. But it's a chance. When mine truly goes TU (I replaced the start/run cap a few years ago), I'll replace it with whatever system + new refrigerant they use. Mine's an old R22 system and will have to be completely swapped out. ChaCHING!

I'm no expert, but I think you can just add NU22 to an R22 system without swapping out all the hardware or even doing a purge.