So, after implementing the ridged plate with index-pin hole to keep the Dickson-style toolpost from rotating while performing cutoffs, and using a 0.5x0.5" HSS tool (versus 0.25x0.25), everything was peachy until I tried to take a cut 4" from the chuck in a mild steel bar 1-3/8" in diameter. What a noise that made. The entire lathe shook. Even with fairly shallow cuts. The tailstock chuck fell out of the tailstock taper (no harm done). And the tool-slide (upper) handwheel started to turn by itself. It was always too easy to move, and I had noted that the reduction in work piece diameter did not match the change in cross-slide (lower) handwheel position. Hmm. I bet it's creeping, even when not obviously moving.
The gib between tool post slide (Clausing part number 704-033, page 30) and the top of the compound (704-034) is the one I could not adjust, for unknown reasons.
So, I disassembled the upper assembly, the thing that rotates to set the cutting angle. As expected, it was pretty dirty, and there were signs that it had been partially wet at one time.
One of the swivel bolts (055-017) had been stretched by too forceful tightening. Filed the top off a bit so it wouldn't pinch against the underside of the compound slide and break that thin cast-iron web. I'll have to make a new swivel bolt.
The two 10-24x 5/8" hex socket cap screws that attach the dial hub (382-029) to the tool post slide were mangled -- it seems that the holes were not tapped deeply enough, or the screws were too long, but the screws were driven home anyway. So, re-tapped the holes, and re-threaded the cap screws.
It took some careful tapping with a drift, but got the gib (345-023) out without difficulty. Apparently, some prior owner did not understand how to use the gib adjusting screws (696-089) - loosen one before tightening the other, and managed to break the critical corners of both ends of the gib off, leaving ramps. It must have taken considerable force. So, when one tightened the make-tighter adjuster (next to the dial hub), it instead pinched the gib against the wall. The gib is also unevenly worn. And was loose. So, after filing some upset areas down, turned the gib over. It isn't perfect, but it will have to do for now.
I suppose one can make a gib by hand, although a surface grinder would come in real handy. Two surfaces are parallel, while two taper towards one another at a shallow angle, and the cross section is always a trapezoid.
Anyway, put it all back together with nice clean Mobil 1 grease on the tool post screw and thrust bearings (no oil ports for these), and Vactra #2 way oil everywhere else, and got the tool post slide tight enough so it does not move by itself.
Fortunately, the larger cross-slide gib (345-022) does not appear to have been butchered. I have not yet taken that whole assembly apart, but I have taken the cross-slide off the saddle, removing, cleaning, and adjusted the gib.
My suspicion is that the water caused rusting of ways, and the problem was solved with muscle, not brain.
Anyway, all this helped a lot, and I made the first part, a collar for use in the toolpost.
Cutting that steel with a big carbide-tipped bit was absolutely peaceful. It made hardly any noise as the chips curled off by the foot, and left a very nice surface. I wonder if the steel was leaded. It came with the lathe, and was rusty as hell. But it was soft to the file, even where there had been a welding puddle, so I went ahead and used it.
Now, I get chatter if I try to take a 0.030" to 0.050" cut with the carbide tool, which has a nose diameter of something like 0.100" (which is large). My question is how heavy a cut I should be able to make on this lathe, to have some idea when I have succeeded is solving the major problems.
Joe Gwinn