Clausing drill press followup

The space I'm moving into has 3 phase power. The test run was with alligator clips into a disconnect box on the wall. I will have to run 3 phase over to "my" corner or fish out the strange wiring that's in place now and retrofit.

The condition of the arbor was too poor to use wedges or any type of prying tool anymore. I really can't determine what the last person was even trying to really do from all the marks and worn off sections. The end chuck body itself was pretty chewed up. I'm going to use a

Cydrome Leader fired this volley in news:md7q0q $1ls$ snipped-for-privacy@reader1.panix.com:

Since it's only used in force in one direction, and because MT arbors sometimes seem to just 'fall out' without much provocation, I would presume that a soft arbor in a hardened socket would hold better.

LLoyd

Its ashame that its sometimes tough to go by the previous occupants' prints.

I don't know the story on this, but I read (30 years ago) that Morse taper tool holders are (always? sometimes?) supplied soft. Then there was something about heat-treating them.

I wish I remembered more, but that much I recall.

Ed Huntress fired this volley in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

I don't know how you'd successfully harden them without also having to re- grind them. They'd change dimensions, one way or another.

Lloyd

Ya' got me, Lloyd. Maybe it's worth looking up -- for someone else.

I'm busy trying to figure out which metals can be used in laser-melt additive manufacturing. Did you know that the martensite in maraging steel is actually FeNi, and that, unlike iron-carbon martensite, it doesn't distort when heated and quenched?

I learned something new today.

Was there a change in arbor technology at some point? All the new arbors I see listed brag about hardenened or even fully hardened- I don't see any unhardenened ones for sale anywhere. The generic and even Rohm MT2 to JT33 ones are only $8 with the Jacobs ones at about $22.

If unhardened steel is really fine, I'd be tempted to make my own arbor. The JT33 side could be turned from a shaft and mounted in the chuck body. The Albrecht chuck body does fit in Sherline lathe and from there the morse 2 taper could be turned. In theory it would be as straight and concentric as you could get as long as the arbor isn't removed from the chuck.

Ed Huntress fired this volley in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

Did you hear of the new iron-aluminum alloy the Koreans have finally succeeded at making? They figured a way to distribute the B2 crystals that normally render the alloy brittle... makes it as strong as ferro-titanium alloys at 36% less weight than plain steel.

LLoyd

Cydrome Leader fired this volley in news:md801o$dt8$ snipped-for-privacy@reader1.panix.com:

You gonna turn accurate tapers on a Sherline? Lloyd

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" fired this volley in news:XnsA453B0AD019ABlloydspmindspringcom@216.168.4.170:

What I mean was... do you have the CNC version? If not, how would you approach cutting that taper with the work _chucked_?

Lloyd

Yeah, I saw the story in The Economist and I read the paper. It really is exciting:

We'll see what happens with it. Some of the exotic precipitation-hardening alloys that come out of the labs are not practical to make in commercial quantitites.

But, maybe....

How does your Sherline do with the tailstock set over that far? I'd think you were pushing it, unless you have a very good taper attachment.

Here's a soft, blank Morse taper arbor:

If he's not aware of it, he needs a faceplate dog made to slide smoothly on a drive pin mounted in the faceplate. But I don't think he'll have much luck with it.

Test your idea on a tapered arbor with a dial indicator in the toolpost. It ain't easy.

I have similar sizes of Albrecht and Jacobs Ball-Bearing chucks, and prefer the Jacobs.

-jsw

I checked the docs on the their compound slide and yeah, it doesn't have enough travel to cut a taper 2-1/2" long. boo. The head can be offset, but the tailstock can't move with it, so turning with one center isn't possible at weird angles. The old timers on youtube always do a final tuning and fit with a sharpie to make sure the fit is good.

I would buy an arbor for the Clausing DP. That said, an unhardened arbor w ill work just fine. And you can make one. I made an arbor for a Jacobs sm all ball bearing chuck for use in my lathe. It is a bit longer than what y ou can buy. You can make the taper by cutting two diameters separated by t he right amount. Then just remove most of what needs to be removed with th e lathe. And then use a file while the piece is turning. Use some blue an d check it with the chuck to see where it is touching and then use the file some more. It isn't a fast way to do it, but it can be done. Do it betwe en centers.

Dan

Or -- if you have one of the Harbor Freight hydraulic presses, you can unscrew the pusher-platform for the jaws (you already have the shell off and the jaws out, don't you?), and find a pushrod which will go through the threaded body, ideally with a sleeve of aluminum, so you don't press against the sides of the threads with the steel of the rod if it bends, and just pump until it pops out. Be sure to have something like a box with crumpled newspaper below it to catch the arbor stub, so it does not go bouncing around the ship, or into you.

You'll probably have to do the drill and tap to give something for the rod to push against, since you cut off the bottom to give access for driving out the push rod which got stuck.

If there is enough shoulder for the fork to work against. To start with, the special Jacobs fork pairs (two thin wedges) for popping out arbors would have been a better choice. I've got all four sizes ready for various needs, but sometimes the arbor body it too close to the Jacobs taper diameter for one of those to work.

Enjoy, DoN.

As I read it above, he is trying to get the arbor (remains) out of the chuck, not the spindle.

He will probably find that quite useful, once he has the stub out of the chuck,

Enjoy, DoN.