COngratulations, not only it is your first big machine, but it is also a very good one.
i- Vote on answer
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9 years ago
COngratulations, not only it is your first big machine, but it is also a very good one.
iDoes the Morse taper have a threaded rod coming down from the top ? Large Morse often do and those I use in my lathe and the R8 in my mill have bolts that hold the taper in.
Mart> >
Martin Eastburn fired this volley in news:VYQJw.667735$ snipped-for-privacy@fx26.iad:
'supposed to be called a "drawbar". Most Morse's don't, although I have a couple.
Most used in drill presses have an anti-rotation 'tang' on the end, which is also the part against which the removal wedge is driven, so as not to mar the taper, proper.
LLoyd
I'm wondering if this is a case of unintentional friction welding. It doesn't take much to get a little bit of a diffusion bond -- like, say, a ton or two of tensile strength.
If the machine was abused, it isn't hard to imagine that is the case.
Ed Huntress fired this volley in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:
Even if not, a close-fitting taper joint allowed to corrode - even a little
- becomes nigh-on welded. The crystals grow _across_ the union. If the two alloys are NOT identical, you might even get some 'hybrids' that are stronger than the base metal of one or the other item.
LLoyd
It just has a tang. that half of the arbor has been sawed off to get the punch out. I'm still not really sure how it got stuck in the first place. I've started to tap the hole for a bolt, which I have to get from a HW store. Clamping the super smooth chuck body down is proving a challenge all by itself, I don't have a vise here, but was using copper sheet and a huge kant-twist clamp to hold the thing.
Correct. The spindle seems ok at this point, and separate from the chuck. Not having access to some rather basic tools in the right place for this sort of work is making thinks take some time.
see
and
most local mill supply stores should carry these as well as Enco, Wholesale Tool, Travers, etc.
thanks. I finally got some space to make a sort-of-shop.
Cydrome Leader fired this volley in news:mdaga3$p92$ snipped-for-privacy@reader1.panix.com:
Y'know... tapers being tapers, a few light whacks from the SIDE might just loosen that up enough to come out. If I were doing it, I wouldn't bang on it hard for fear of damaging the socket in the chuck, but I would give it a number of smart taps from all directions (and quite close to the chuck body) -- THEN try to extract it.
Ummm... You HAVE made sure there's not a retaining screw INSIDE the chuck holding that sucker in... yes? It's not common in taper-mounted chucks, but I've seen it.
LLoyd
LLoyd
Came across some Albrecht 130 threads that may be of help/interest.
[ ... ]
The arbor removes from *most* spindles with a Morse key drift, using the slot in the spindle for access. (And for the Taiwanese drill press which I have, there is slot in the quill to access that, while some have the slot in an area below the quill.
But -- I *have* seen cheap (and usually small) drill presses with the Jabobs taper as a part of the end of the spindle, in which case the separation is more difficult.
Nute that he did say (as still quoted above):
"Somebody went to town trying to remove the arbor from this chuck, complete "
Implying that it was a matter of separating the rather beat up arbor from the chuck, so a new one could be fitted, to allow it to be used in the Clausing drill press. Probably the arbor got beat up when the previous owner attempted to remove it to replace it with an arbor which is a proper fit for the Clausing's spindle.
Enjoy, DoN.
================ Just a thought but Albrecht makes an integral shank chuck. Does this one have the groove in the shank for the removal wedges?
Having another hammer opposite the strike/against the back of the spindle will help counteract the hammer hit (saving the bearings) and make it more effective.
Good question. That's thinking "inside the chuck".
Nice step-by-step, but he does make a critical error at around 30:30 when he greases the screw threads. Lubricating the thread will make the chuck feel springy and cause it to release too easily. If you find the chuck releases when backing out a tap while power tapping (for a reasonable size tap), oil or grease on that thread is likely the problem.
The last page of this catalog has the short version of the repair procedure.
Larry Jaques fired this volley in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:
It's OUT of the spindle. He's trying to get the taper out of the chuck.
Lloyd
OK, I hadn't been following it from the start. The point I was trying to make is that a firm backup makes sure the strike is effective.
Heat & Freeze to break the connection?
with what ya got . Cydrome , is this the drill press that had a bunch of runout ? Maybe caused by using the wrong taper on the spindle end of the mandrel , from a mention above about Clausing tapers ...
A Brown & Sharpe #7 taper is almost identical to Morse #2.
-jsw
I finally got it apart, will post photos later on. There were a few surprises.
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