Cost of concreting an area

On 2/25/2012 11:47 AM, Ignoramus1113 wrote:

http://concrete.networx.com/?se=gn

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<:3 )~

Depends where you are and who you hire. Prepare an RFQ and get some bids.

Pay for plenty of steel - it's cheaper in the long run. You probably
also want air entrainment, both so the mix can be drier (thus stronger)
but still workable, and also for better winter behavior of the completed
slab.

12 yards on the small one, 300 yards on the big one. Quite a range
there. Was touching 90 bucks a yard rurally and 9 years ago, I'd presume
it's only going to cost more in a city and now.
Plus preparation/forms, steel, possibly drainage work if I recall your
earlier problems correctly, and the labor for placing/finishing it.

Proper reinforcement might also let you use 6", saving 25% concrete
volume. Given your location, paying a civil engineer a couple hundred to
prepare your bid documents might be worthwhile and let you get a design
that is as efficient as possible for what you want to do, saving you
money in the long run. In a city, you may _have_ to do that anyway.

You'll also need to schedule plenty of time of for a decent cure to get
your money's worth. Start loading it up too early and you can break a
slab that would have held up fine with a few more weeks of damp curing.
While you can pay extra for high early strength (cures in a week, all
things going well), it will still be stronger weeks later, and going
easy on it at first (after not going on it at all) will pay off in the
long run. Don't put too much faith in spray on sealants for the cure -
hosing it down several times daily for a month pays long dividends.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by
Please don't feed the trolls. Killfile and ignore them so they will go away.

Holy crap....  now I know why people use gravel, ballast....   LOL

May be cheaper to just re-asphalt, as well.  Just patch, patch, patch.
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EA

Existential Angst wrote:

Possibly enquire about re-enforced asphalt products. My neighbour said
the company he used to work did some which often got used for domestic
drives as SUVs and larger vehicles with power steering often had the
wheels turned in place which damages non re-enforced asphalt. Would
depend whether it would cope with forklift trucks and other heavy
vehicle use though.

Hmmm.....   how bout just laying down 1/2" steel plate on a (patched)
asphalt bed?

A 4x8 weighs in at 640#, and at 50c/lb, this calcs out to exactly $1/sq ft,
for sumpn that is essentially indestructible.
If the asphalt is freshly applied, ie soft, mebbe even thinner plate would
work, if it is laid in right.
The system of plates could be made watertight, either with various sealants,
or welding.
--
EA

And slippery as shit (literally) when wet.  It would probably freeze
sooner.


I don't think you would really want to, and when water did get under
it, between it and the asphalt, and then started freezing, I think it
would pop the plates up in short order.
jk

I wonder how you got that number. A 1x1 foot half inch plate weighs 18
lbs, and at 50 cents per lb, this comes to $9 per square foot.

On Sat, 25 Feb 2012 16:55:57 -0600, Ignoramus1113


Must be a lot of that "new math"

Proly left off a zero.....   :)--

Mebbe 1/4" plate, unwelded, on top of asphalt would be a competitive,
quickie solution.
And then if you ever neede steel, it would be right in the front yard....
You could patch one area of asphalt, try one or two sheets in a heavily-used
forklift area, see how it holds up
Also, ito slipperiness, you could proly get diamond plate.
I wonder if 1/8" diamond plate would hold up....
--
EA

On Sun, 26 Feb 2012 00:20:46 -0500, "Existential Angst"


 You'd have a nice shallow bowl in short oder - like working it with
an english wheel. Quarter would take a bit longer - but even 1/4" mild
steel under a solid tire forklift on asphalt will warp eventually. If
the asphalt is dead flat it will stand up reasonably long. Flip it
after every few uses, perhaps.

On Sat, 25 Feb 2012 10:47:58 -0600, Ignoramus1113


Depends on the cost of concrete locally, as well as labour and re-bar.
You are looking at about 350 yards of concrete (assuming 100X 120 ft),
plus rebar as far as material cost, plus removal of existing asphalt
and "conditioning" of the existing substrate.

Let's just say it will be "substantial"

I started calling around, first quote was $6.50 psf. For 16x30 feet,
it works out to a little above $3k.

i

On Sat, 25 Feb 2012 16:57:26 -0600, Ignoramus1113


So for 100X120 ft you are looking at $78,000. Like I said -
"substantial"

On 2/25/2012 10:47 AM, Ignoramus1113 wrote:

Found a driveway estimator calculator--it's fixed at 4" pour so you'd
have to double the area for 8".  I messed around to see what it thought
concrete prices are in Chicago area and discovered it thinks roughly
$275/yd.  So, I checked and Wichita comes in at roughly $200.  How good
the above is I've no clue--I've not done any concrete for so long I
really don't know what ready-mix prices are now.

If I do it on that basis of a sq ft (accounting for the 2X thickness
difference you asked for), I get Chi-town would be almost $7/sq-ft
concrete plus ~$2/ft for excavation, prep, etc.  That for a household
driveway wouldn't count for steel.

<http://www.buildingjournal.com/concrete-driveway-estimating.html

Bring your checkbook!  :)

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Around here, $4.00/sq.ft. formed and finished, for a 4" (nom.) slab.

So figure about 150% of that for 8".  The labor is a significant part of
the price.

Here, ready-mix 3500psi mud runs about $135/yd, delivered, if you buy it,
and about $110/yd if a contractor known to the company buys it.

Lloyd