Craigslist pipeline welder

On Sat, 3 Oct 2009 17:01:48 -0700, the infamous "azotic" scrawled the following:

Maybe. I just failed to sell the old frozen Lincoon SAE-300 for $299. A guy who saw the ad and didn't bid is coming over tomorrow to see it, though. I'd like to get at least $200 out of it, but I'll settle for scrap price if needed.

Bids?

-- The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress depends on the unreasonable man. -- George Bernard Shaw

Crap~ Is that thing still unsold? Know anyone coming down to California that can haul it? Ill swap you something worth more than you are asking for it, and help with some gas money.

Gunner, who's Miller Trailblazer 55G is being rebuilt

Political Correctness is a doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical liberal minority, and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.

Gonna check it out, take some tools with me. I figure a quick compression test should give some indication of how worn the engine is. Anyone know if these welders have a hour meter and where its located ?

Best Regards Tom.

No running time meter.

Here is the manual for the SA-200

A couple of things: The Continental engine is a tough old beast, easy to work on, but parts are expensive.

The 120 volt plug is DC, you can run lights and power tools with brushes but not anything with an AC motor.

For that price, I'd just fire it up with a heavy rod and see if it works. Assume the eng>> Good possibility it is a Lincoln SA-200. One of those in somewhat running

I bought one for $350, and ended up putting $600 in it. Main thing is to see if it will crank, and the engine will turn. After that, you have to run the engine to test the electrical components. If it runs and the generator is good, you can fix all the rest of the stuff for not a lot of money. The circuit board is $100. The other stuff is just mechanical. Make sure it's all there. The Continental engines that were put in there are just about bulletproof.

Steve

Most did not. It will be on the end panel if one is there. Does this have a red or black end panel? The reds are older and worth more.

Steve

If the exciter and electric circuit are fried, you can buy a digital tach from Northern tools for $30, and run it at 1450, making a mechanical linkage. Either idle or 1450. That is what I did, figuring I'd do it until I got it all fixed. Now, it works so good, I am just going to leave it like that. I already have it sold for $1,000 if I ever want to sell it.

Steve

If you mean one of

looks like the price has gone up $10.

By mechanical linkage, you mean something like a hand controlled throttle lever, or some kind of actuator where the tach controls the throttle?

Solid rod. Either idle or pull it and set it in stop, and it's at 1450. When you're done welding, or go back to idle, pull the rod out of the slot. If you try to start it with the rod left in that position, it is difficult to start. Like I said, works fine. I found out the operating RPM of the engine, and bought a tach to set it to that rpm. Yes, the exciter circuit board and everything working together would be nice, but I'd rather spend $100 (maybe more, the Lincoln guy said if everything was smoked it would be $300) for something else.

That IS the tach I got from NT. But once I had the rpm set, it was not necessary, and it would have just sat out in the weather, so I pulled it off after using it a short time. Four modes. ON, idle, run, and OFF.

Ran some 7018 the other day, and it sure looks purty. I'm going to do some

6011 stinger negative soon to weld some hangers to the thin metal in my container. Will see just how low this machine will go.

Steve