Custom router bit

This raises an interesting question (setting aside that the 5/8 is too smal l and I'd have to go to the 3/4" size) : are the dimensions that I have, su pplied by the distributor, correct? They are probably "close enough for gov ernment work" but if you're a carpenter with a ruler that only goes to 16th

I will check the dimensions today.

Why two passes?

king that I should do some actual measuring rather than going by the sketch from the supplier. I will do so later today.

You are not removing much material. With straight, flat material, a sharp plane, and a guide, I'd guess about it would take less than two minutes for an eight foot groove.

How about cutting a central dado, and two passes on a router table over a v groove bit to form the sides? Or form the sides with a tilted table saw blade?

Or a molding head for the table saw? Custom molding cutters are easier to shape than creating a router bit.

This raises an interesting question (setting aside that the 5/8 is too small and I'd have to go to the 3/4" size) : are the dimensions that I have, supplied by the distributor, correct? They are probably "close enough for government work" but if you're a carpenter with a ruler that only goes to

I will check the dimensions today.

Why two passes?

Because the 5/8 is too small.

Paul K. Dickman

more easily dealt with by going up to the 3/4" bit and lowering it in the r outer table, I think.

BTW, #5419 on

is, except for the totally wrong dim ensions, exactly what I need. It cuts a v-groove with a flat bottom.

snip

more easily dealt with by going up to the 3/4" bit and lowering it in the router table, I think.

BTW, #5419 on

is, except for the totally wrong dimensions, exactly what I need. It cuts a v-groove with a flat bottom.

Pardon me for snipping, but it replies were staritng to sprawl.

Your are missing my idea. By grinding back the point of the vee bit, you create a flat in the center. The flat won't cut prefectly, but the bevels will do most of the cutting. If that flat is around 3/16 in dia, it will take two passes to cut it to the

3/8 width.

Since they were making these from stock cutters, I strongly suspect that angle is 45deg. These don't come standard in 41.6 deg. It is not inconceivable that they would fully grind a new angle, but it would be a pain in the butt to get the relief right. I think it is more likely that they just ground a couple of flutes on the end to bottom cut the flat.

Paul K. Dickman

the

Probably not enough to be a problem with a 1/2in diameter tool, especially if the router motor is mounted to a table.

However, that's not to say that the gullet on the opposite side could not be gashed away to effect a better balance if desired.....it's just that without proper fixturing, it's a hell of a lot easier to grind a single lip that it is to grind two of them and have both cutting edges end up being reasonably concentric to the rotational centerline.

fences and feather boards, and I'd much rather not have to switch bits for each cut. I imagine that two passes (3/8 straight) and a 45 v-groove with t he bearing removed would probably do a great job, but it's either a bit cha nge or a second machine. Also, having standard-size cutters (and carbide, t oo) would be a major plus.

You said the magic words. Second machine. Either a used one off craigsli st or one from Harbor Freight . They have a trim rounter for $29.95 and wi th just a little effort you can find a 25% off coupon. Sometimes on sale f or about $20. Set the second router up with the 3/8 straight and leave it set up until yo u have done all the windows.

Dan

I would use a shaper head and knives on a table or radial arm saw. Regrind the knives to the desired shape.