DIY Sheet metal brake. (how to make one)

Hi All

Yea,, I am looking at my windows and I can see that some are rotting out. They are 20 years old and are near the end of the road. A complete replacement is a $14K deal. So,,,, to soften the blow I was thinking of cutting out the rot, replace it as required and refurbishing the surfaces with a resin paint and then try my hand at surfacing everything with light aluminium or vinyl. I think I can permanently bond either to the existing frames with PL Premium and or calk.

I guess there are a lot of ways to tackle the problem but I am partial to buying a roll of AL at home depot and bending it up as required. I see that there is a Bandito bender for $449 I.E.: http://www.toolscomplete.com/t/Tubing_Notchers/_39_BIG_Bendito_39_Heavy_Duty_Metal_Bending_Brake_23045.htm

But not being a tin man I am not at all sure that it's what I would need and also I would like to try my hand at fabricating a bender. Does anyone have a simple plan for a brake and or any advise on the subject??

Thanks Bill D

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I want to thank ATP and Mark (on the side) This Tapco Port-O-Bender is quite the rig. I would love to work with one but they do cost a lot and I have no plans that could justify owning one. I guess it's back to the drawing board. Perhaps there are some common shape components in al or vinyl that are avail. ??

Thanks Bill D

http://www.toolscomplete.com/t/Tubing_Notchers/_39_BIG_Bendito_39_Heavy_Duty_Metal_Bending_Brake_23045.htm

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William G Darby wrote:

They're available, but usually expensive. I'm sure you could make an aluminum trim brake, but if you make it with steel rust marking of the trim is going to be a problem. I think you could find a used trim brake for $300 with some patience, then resell it on ebay when you're done. The simple "windy City" model was only about $700 new when I bought it, although that was a while back.

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Vince D. wrote:

The typical bend when you're capping trim is between 30" and 80". If you don't get everything perfect it looks like hell and you might as well put away your tools. Plus, the job is a PITA with a 10 1/2' brake. I can't imagine doing a whole house with a 30" brake. At that point, just do it with wood and paint it, which would look better anyway, although require more maintenance. Or, heaven forbid, hire someone. BTW, to answer an earlier question, IIRC, Fypon makes exterior trim profiles in plastic, and Wolverine makes a lot of accessories, and the stuff looks pretty good. There is also a new type of supposedly exterior MDF but I could not find a dealer for it, it looks like an interesting alternative for creating some interesting exterior trim.

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If you want a cheap bender, Harbor Freight has a number of them that fit the bill. Bear in mind that there are many different benders. For example, I have a 48" Harbor Freight brake in a style known as a pan & box brake as it has metal dies that can be removed/moved to bend insides of pans. If you don't need to do complex bends, there are cheap benders out there that will just bend whatever size of metal you put in - depending on the gauge rating though. For example, my brake is rated to 16 ga mild steel but I rarely bend anything thicker than 20 ga in it.

You can spend a ton for a production bender - Tennsmiths and other name brands just go up and up and up. They are beautiful machines but out of my price range at least. On the other hand, There are small light duty benders starting at $40 that should make short work of thin aluminum. Do some digging at Harbor Freight, Enco, US Industrial, Williams Lo-Buck Tools, and MSC and you'll quickly get an idea of prices and features.

I've heard of guys putting sheet metal on their bench, angle iron on top held down with clamps and then bending the metal by hand. If you are dealing with real thin aluminum, maybe that is an option.

Hope this helps,

--G--

On Sat, 12 Jul 2003 21:59:49 -0400, "William G Darby"

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First I want to thank everyone who has offered comments. I sure have learned a lot about brakes that I never knew before. So again thanks to everyone.

To be honest I took a long look at the hinge type bender found in the Port-O-Brake but they are far to difficult to build a one of. What did catch my imagination was the idea of milling something like a 3/4" dia ball nosed* end mill slot 3/8" deep along the top edge of a .5" by 3" al/steel bar about 7' long. If I then placed a half round 3/4' rod in the channel and a clamping plate whose edge lay exactly along the center line of the rod I would have a 7 foot "light metal" brake.

All I need do is clamp the line to be bent along the centerline of the slot and rotate the rod using handles at both ends simultaneously. (perhaps a rotation handle in the middle as well) I should be able to get a perfect 7 foot 90Ebend. This arrangement seems quite sound as it provides support for the full length of the bend and axis of the bending face is forced to rotate exactly about the axis of the required bend and therefore there should be no deviation from the desired bend line.

* The slot could be made with a square end, end mill as the half round would still rotate properly but the wear point would be restricted to the two (three) points upon which the half round would rotate upon.

In any case I am in no rush to build this thing and I do enjoy playing with various ideas.

Thoughts and comments would be appreciated.

Bill

wrote:

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y_Metal_Bending_Brake_23045.htm

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"William G Darby" wrote in message news:

not sure if i have read this right, i think you will get a bend with a large radius one side. I make sheet folders when i need to, never made a neat one to keep.. if the material isn't bent down against something it doesn't bend sharply, you will be bending it down against part of the half round stock, which will be below the level of the back of the slot/groove? or have i got it all arse about face.... hinged benders are easy to make. i did put a webpage together with a simple one on. -- richard

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"William G Darby" wrote in message news:

A friend of mine who repairs cars found a biiiig flypress in his hedge, he scounged some offcut's of pressbrake[?] tooling and it is very effective, He was intending on just doing the odd repair panel but he has done brakets for shelving and all sorts of stuff, all his scrap metal had bends in it;-) A hinged bender is very easy to make the only thing is the bit's needs to be very ridgid to hold a precise radius, if you try and make repeatable bends with a floppy bender it's real grief, especially if they have to fit together. I knocked up a short bender to do some chassis patches IIRC it's some bit's of 1/4" 2"x2" angle and it was ok bending 12 swg sheet about eight inches long. I used the same priciples on a folder to do 6 feet 20 swg aluminium sheet. www.integerspin.co.uk/folder.html or maybe .htm

I like the magnabender - aussie thing with an electromagnet- the hinges are very neat, they are clear of the bend center. you can get the drawings for the hinges from the pattent office.

-- richard

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by

Thanks Richard

Enjoyed your site!

The hinge bender plan is nice and straight forward. I know what you mean by having to have a rigid set up in order to get good bends. That's why I am partial to using the milling vise as a means of clamping the work. At the moment I have 12" by 2" jaws in my 6" Kurt type (Indian) vise and my thought was to just add a hinge to the end of the non moving jaw that way the vise would do the clamping. Anyway it's still mulling around in my head.

Thanks !! Bill

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There's a Gingery book on building a sheet metal brake. Of course, you can rent them. There's also a tool used by roofers (years ago)on the roof for standing seam tin roofs, bends about 16" per action, probably impossible to find now (my moron neighbor had one from the junkyard, but left out it in his yard for the local scum to steal). But consider well if tin encapsulation is really what you want; it prevents the wood from drying out, and promotes rot and insect damage, besides giving an older home that ghetto look. Open, painted wood of the right species should last at least a century, and dutchman patches might double that. Epoxy wood fillers are a nifty way to save complex shapes. Note that this is the last year CCA treated timber will be sold.

wrote:

rotting

of

surfaces

existing

see

need

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wrote:

complete

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wrote something ......and in reply I say!:

PMFJI

Really? Is this as in "not sold at all"? Fencing and all?

I have wondered when it would start. I think the stuff is pretty evil, mainly because of the long-term problem, apart from any poisoning troubles. Pity. It is so durable and completely rot and pest-proof.

I live in Oz. We are of course way behind all this, and I have heard nothing.

I will check out a search. Any suggested sites?

Thanks in advance.

****************************************************************************************** I could never _see_ myself as anything!

Nick White --- HEAD:Hertz Music Please remove ns from my header address to reply via email !! <") _/ ) ( ) _//- \__/

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