Exhaust manifold issues

Aim the output of the exhaust into the end of an oversized pipe, even a

4" PVC pipe will do. Set the pipe so the end is well outside the trailer. The relatively high velocity exhaust will enter the pipe and draw fresh air in by venturi effect, cooling the exhaust so it won't hurt the PVC pipe in the short term. The exhaust won't get too hot anyway since you don't have a way to put a load on the engine.

Many Diesels get air-lock in the injection system, especially after being run out of fuel or having filters changed. There is a procedure, often loosening a particular bolt somewhere, to bleed out the air bubbles.

Jon

You could run almost any light metal pipe. Diesel exhaust temperature from an unloaded engine is not very hot. In fact, after a foot or so, I suspect you could run PVC, but don't load the engine.

Paul

I found the hard way, that dryer hose does not work!

i

Yes, I will look through all this when I get the exhaust hooked up.

i

m an unloaded engine is not very hot. In fact, after a foot or so, I suspec= t you could run PVC, but don't load the engine.

Probably could use drier vent. Most of the dealership garages I've seen have flex pipes from the ceilings so that engines can be run on the lifts. There's not a lot of pressure there, once you get beyond a certain point. Gotta squirrel cage fan? Put it on the end so you get negative pressure inside your hut.

Stan

unloaded engine is not very hot. In fact, after a foot or so, I suspect you could run PVC, but don't load the engine.

Dryer vent lasted 2.1 seconds.

i

Ignoramus29524 wrote in rec.crafts.metalworking on Fri, 07 Jan 2011 12:24:58 -0600:

Yes! The longer the better. A little heat first will help it wick in.

I wouldn't if the manifold is cast iron. Cast steel, I'd try it. But I would use one of those wussy butterfly types. More blows per min. less torque.

It might be too much. Better play it safe. Just a piece of coat hanger wire. Cheap insurance.

For WOT, yes. For half throttle maybe. For a bench test, no problem.

You can make a one bellow bellows out of two rings of sheet steel. Just weld one to each of two sections of pipe, the weld the outer edges together. Put this close to the manifold section.

You could just use some 6" stove pipe. Leave the connection open, and it will draw in extra air with the exhaust. That's how they do tractor pulls in indoor arenas, but on a larger scale.

an unloaded engine is not very hot. In fact, after a foot or so, I suspect you could run PVC, but don't load the engine.

Hey Iggy,

Empirical knowledge....Air compressor diesel exhaust pointed into the mouth of a "borrowed" industrial grade 20 pound plastic Rubber-Maid 30 gallon garbage can at about 4 feet, in hopes of re-directing the sound, the bottom is good for about 3 minutes!!! AND it didn't do shit to re-direct the noise!!

DAMHIK

Ann Onymous

an unloaded engine is not very hot. In fact, after a foot or so, I suspect you could run PVC, but don't load the engine.

A lot of the noise comes from the engine itself, instead of through the exhaust

Iggy, do try to get a maintenance manual for this engine, or any 53 series. Adjusting things is somewhat non-intuitive, for example the rocker arm the compresses the injectors is not set with clearance like the valve rocker next to it - it requires a special gauge. Any of the Detroit Diesels can run away if the governor is set incorrectly, setting the fuel rack is difficult as it is done by feel and there are several types of governors and they are adjusted differently. Unless you've done it several times it is rather confusing to correctly set the fuel rack - actually a rotating tube.

Cheers,

John D. Slocomb (jdslocombatgmail)

Dryer vent lasted 2.1 seconds.

i

Was it the plastic or metal vent pipe?

Not much to it, Fuel ON, (Pump on if it has an electric lift pump) Make sure intake flap is open, Shut down lever/cable in run position, Throttle at idle, hit start button/switch. If it is starting then you probably have a fuel problem. Partly plugged line, filter, old fuel. Water in the fuel.

Yeah those are not in the realm of a clean running engine. The big brother to that engine is in a couple of our Fire Engines. Starting them without the exhaust vent attached will get you a VERY stern lecture... As soon as the Chief can find you in the smoke!!

Brush off all the rust you can. HEAT the bolts and iron up the touch a candle to the bolts under the heads. Then try removing them with a standard wrench. NO IMPACT unless you want to see broken manifold.

WAY to heavy. Just weld in a stub and connect the 2" up with a section of flex tube. Then the engine can move but the pipe can be whatever you want.

If you plan on running it wide open yes. For idle and low throttle it will be OK

Aluminum

On most all Detroits that I have seen and worked on in trucks, they all have a spring loaded vane in the intake manifold that will spring shut when a lever is pulled or tripped, blocking the manifold input. The trucks would all have an Estop knob on the dash as well as an engine stop knob. If the Estop knob was pulled the engine would not run but only start up for a couple of seconds and put out a lot of black smoke and then shut off. Just reset the mousetrap on the air input manifold.

John

Plastic or corregated aluminum>

Paul

No, the mousetrap is reset and open.

i

I tried aluminum drier vent. Destroyed in 2 seconds.

i

Iggy -

How about a muffler shop. They can bend in nice corners and use

2" pipe all day. I bet they could do the job - have the drawing and a simple L just have a little longer on both ends so if the bend is just shifted one way or anther.

Should be easy for them!

Mart> >>> So I have this Detroit Diesel 3-53 in my enclosed trailer. The plus is