Hardinge HC problem

Well to start, open the control cabinet on the left side and look at the drum switches while moving the levers. When I first got mine, which is for all intents and purposes the same vintage as yours, I had problems with the levers and linkages into the drum switches. Sorry to say, I don't recall exactly what I did to get things working and looking at them now, it's not exactly obvious what was done.

But it seems to me that if things are loose enough in the links, you might not be moving the drum switches to the proper positions. Worth a couple minutes of looking and wiggling....

Jon

You are missing the most important pictures.

Open up the electrical cabinet and take clear photos of the inside.

There were at least 3 different wiring schemes over the years, for the variable speed drive.

Gunner

"Lenin called them "useful idiots," those people living in liberal democracies who by giving moral and material support to a totalitarian ideology in effect were braiding the rope that would hang them. Why people who enjoyed freedom and prosperity worked passionately to destroy both is a fascinating question, one still with us today. Now the useful idiots can be found in the chorus of appeasement, reflexive anti-Americanism, and sentimental idealism trying to inhibit the necessary responses to another freedom-hating ideology, radical Islam"

Bruce C. Thornton, a professor of Classics at American University of Cal State Fresno

Gunner and Jon, thanks. I figured it out. The lathe was wired incorrectly, so that forward became reverse. As a result, the speed adjusting nut went the wrong way, hit a safety stop and stopped operating due to that. I found an instruction sheet inside that told me what to do (kill power to machine and manually back off the screw).

Now as far as I can tell, everything works great.

i

Wonderful. Yah..they do have to be wired to run the proper direction....chuckle

Gunner

"Lenin called them "useful idiots," those people living in liberal democracies who by giving moral and material support to a totalitarian ideology in effect were braiding the rope that would hang them. Why people who enjoyed freedom and prosperity worked passionately to destroy both is a fascinating question, one still with us today. Now the useful idiots can be found in the chorus of appeasement, reflexive anti-Americanism, and sentimental idealism trying to inhibit the necessary responses to another freedom-hating ideology, radical Islam"

Bruce C. Thornton, a professor of Classics at American University of Cal State Fresno

Btw...how much tooling did you get with the lathe? Ive some.......

Gunner

"Lenin called them "useful idiots," those people living in liberal democracies who by giving moral and material support to a totalitarian ideology in effect were braiding the rope that would hang them. Why people who enjoyed freedom and prosperity worked passionately to destroy both is a fascinating question, one still with us today. Now the useful idiots can be found in the chorus of appeasement, reflexive anti-Americanism, and sentimental idealism trying to inhibit the necessary responses to another freedom-hating ideology, radical Islam"

Bruce C. Thornton, a professor of Classics at American University of Cal State Fresno

Let me know what you have and what you want for it.

Igor

The question is..what do you need?

Your lathe uses tool holders with a 3/8' center height, so max shank you can use is 5/8".

Tool bits, turning, max out at 1/2" with center line of 3/8". Boring bar diameter of max 5/8" with centerline of 3/8"

I dont have any drill bushings, though do have a decent quantity of 5/8" diameter holders..

I dont have any spare drill bushings/collets..if you dont know what I mean...

Notice the collets/bushings go inside of the 5/8" tool holder. First thing you do is make up multiples of the common sizes, 1/8, 3/16, 1/4,

5/16, 7/16, 3/8, etc etc. Make up about 4 of each. Simple job using any handy bar stock. Make up 50 blanks, undrilled, uncut. A job easily done on the Chucker. Turn, face, knurl if you like, then cut off, then go on to the next one. All from a bar. Helps you get to know your lathe too.. As you need em, drill and bore em, then slot em, stamp em with size and put em in a rack. Unless you are rich and want to buy a complete set.

One of my clients btw...

Or ebay

Remember...5/8" Od Max!!!.... .625"

A 3/8" drill chuck with a stub arbor *or 2 or 3 of them) is gonna be needed..1/2" ...you gonna need at least one most likely

Use the keyed Jacobs type..the Albrecht style keyless tend to run pretty long and you will run out of room swinging that big drill chuck and bit around in the turret.

Boring bars, any size up to 5/8" shank. You can use a boring bar up to

6" long and have turret space to choke back on the boring bar "stickout". Longer than that and it hits the next tool holder in the turret. I find that a couple carbide 1/4" boring bars are handy, same with a couple 3/8" (with inserts) and a couple 1/2" (with inserts) will do 99% of all your boring needs on the Chucker.

You can easily make up compression tap holders...dont try to rigid tap in the chucker until you get REAL comfortable with it. A releasing tap holder is the t*ts, next best thing is a compression tap holder and they are easy..dirt simple to make. Dont bother trying to tap anything bigger than 1/2" on the chucker..there isnt enough HP (3/4hp) to drive a big tap. You can use the spin and slam method..but it breaks taps, and burns collets. Shrug. Spin it up fast, slam the tap in and hope you go full depth before you run out of steam.....cringe....

You Can use a Tapmatic taping head, with the right shank. Works pretty damned good on the machine. but sticks way out from the turret. Great for repeat threading of the same part if you dont have a floating/compression tap holder.

Threading is easy, using homemade die holders for the common sizes.

Same caviat holds...about 1/2" max for die threading before you run out of horsepower.

I can show you how to make a marvelous little die holder on your lathe, that will hold the common sizes of round " split button dies". Take you an hour or so to make. Last a lifetime.

Got the little sheetmetal clips that go on the handwheel dials? So you can go back to the same place, from tool to tool?

Paint em all different colors. Use model airplane paint. That way you dont mix em up. A long slide dial "threading" indicator is necessary for repeat work. Im sure you have one. Make a holder to mount it on the lathe, under the headstock bolt closest to the operator is a good location so it indicates off the left side of the apron.

They have the spindle running backwards too...nosiy sumbitch..bad bearings somewhere.

I checked the electronics pictures...your lathe is a 2nd Generation..probably mid 60's? based on electronics for the vari drive. Later models had a subpanel with 2 icecube relays sticking out of it. PITA to service the vari drive electricals.

Yours is easier. And Ive good a good stock of relays and so forth if you need something. You MAY wind up smoking that selinium rectifier..but its a $3 item at Rat Shack for a potted full wave bridge rectifier. Be sure to fuse it. There is likely one in the carraige drive box on the end of the ways as well. Same deal, same replacement. Shrug.

Gunner

"Lenin called them "useful idiots," those people living in liberal democracies who by giving moral and material support to a totalitarian ideology in effect were braiding the rope that would hang them. Why people who enjoyed freedom and prosperity worked passionately to destroy both is a fascinating question, one still with us today. Now the useful idiots can be found in the chorus of appeasement, reflexive anti-Americanism, and sentimental idealism trying to inhibit the necessary responses to another freedom-hating ideology, radical Islam"

Bruce C. Thornton, a professor of Classics at American University of Cal State Fresno

Gunner, great post, I printed it out.

i

...

Instead of drill bushings, I use a Brookfield drill holder. Adjustable for all size drills. I do have drill bushings for a few very common sizes.

Like all machines, you can easily spend more on tooling than you did on the lathe.

Karl

Is there any chance you have some up to date links for the manuals that you linked to, all of the domains seem to have expired :/