Help with building design!

stryped fired this volley in news:a5867314-66a8- snipped-for-privacy@y38g2000hsy.googlegroups.com:

Stryped, you're not talking apples and oranges here. Metal will go right over the girts without any substrate. Vinyl requires sheathing underneath. By the time you sheath the entire structure, the vinyl will become a less attactive solution than the metal.

Of course you can make complete frames and then erect them. But keep in mind that even a gambrel type rafter system requires collar ties, thus breaking down your concept of a higher roof. You still have a "ceiling" at pole height.

Because it's so hard to get a big, heavy pole precisely to the right depth, it's not a great idea to erect pre-built frames, unless you're doing it on a slab on grade (and of course, then you have anchoring and wind-load issues -- pole barns built on "hinges" are not a great idea; just ask my next-door idiot neighbor).

The way pole barns are usually built is to get all the poles in the ground, and "just about right" as to height. Then you strike a level line all-round for the rim beams (a water level is a great way to do this), and cut the posts to height after the rim structure is complete. That's a lot less work, and a lot simpler than fiddling a frame into two holes, taking it back out, re-digging or filling, and repeating that scenario about six times per post.

(got the "pole barn building tee-shirt" yarns ago; my current one is

80x100, 20ft to the rafters in the center bay, built with salvaged power poles and standing-rib galvalume)

LLoyd

First of all are you in an area where there is a building code? If you are subject ot the UBdc and are going to store cars, trucks, other motorized equipment, etc you will have to have a concrete floor before you can get an occupancy permit.

Second, on a pole building to get a permit many of the building departments will require engineering on the frame and roof system. Much simpler to go with wood studs 2'o/c and roof truses(better yet studs 16"o/c). the building department understands this type of construction and will leave you alone. use

7/16" osb for side wll and roof sheathing, will give you a good stiff structure then a building wrap under the siding and 15# felt on the roof, vinyl siding and shingles. Easiest materials for the DIY'er to use and understand, also better chance any volunteer help you get will also be fimilar with.

Can I string level the bottom skirt boards then just measure from this to the top for the location of the top boards?

By the way, where did you get those salvaged telephone poles? I called the power company but they dont sell them.

stryped fired this volley in news:eee750ad-c385- snipped-for-privacy@x35g2000hsb.googlegroups.com:

Yeah. But "string level" doesn't suit my tastes over that length. Use a water level, and get it dead-on with absolutely no more work. You don't need a pre-built level, just a length of relatively small-bore transparent hose (no, you don't even need a reservoir).

I got mine from the power company. Locales vary. Square posts make a better barn, in terms of fit and finish.

However, you've written over and over about 4x4 posts. Don't. 6x6 is about the minimum for that size structure.

LLoyd

I live in the country and there are no codes.

4x4 would not work? what about 4x6?

I live in the country and there are no codes.

4x4 would not work? what about 4x6?

What about a package from your local builder?

Penny wise. Pound foolish. A standard way to make posts these days is too nail together three 2x6. Use pressure treat below grade. Stagger the joints and use gorilla glue. Also, a concrete cookie should be under the post in the hole with a special bent rebar the hooks into the post. Very cheap and keeps building in place during a thunderstorm.

Excellent idea. They will provide the most cost effective design, give you guidance, and deliver.

Karl