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Help with oven schematic (metal content)

Here is a link for the schematic of my old (1985±) Jenn-air wall oven (si ngle).

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Please note that the BR wire that is cut off at the bottom of the scan, goe s to the splice point to the right.

Said oven has been used many times in the "self-clean" mode to clean numero us metal car and motorcycle parts (my wife is wonderful), frequently all th e disassembled parts to my popcorn machine. Said "self-clean" feature no l onger works. Here is what is konwn:

Broiler heating element works. Bake heating element works. Oven works fin e as an oven and all timer functions work. Thermostat absolutely no longer available, but, as mentioned, temperatures are maintained within a close r ange (check with remote sensing thermometer)while doing preheat, baking and broiling.

Upon trying the clean cycle, the manual door-lock is prevented from being o pened, the oven reaches 580°F (suspiciously close to the 600°F limit sw itch and 600°F lock) and then suspiciously shuts off, thereby allowing th e door to be manually opened.

Can somebody with a good eye trace out this diagram and tell me where I cou ld take voltage or amperage readings to find the 'break' in the circuit. O f course the 975°F limit within the thermostat could be opening too early , and since no longer in production, that is what I would like to rule out.

Also, if somebody could explain the the symbols withing the thermostat. It appears that the 975° switch is normally closed? while the 600° switch is normally open. What pulls the 600° closed? Is that resistor symbol below, labeled SO, CO and OM, really a coil?

The oven is totally pulled out of the cabinet and all the parts and termina ls are accessible. My immediate hope is to (upon advice from group) be abl e to place a jumper somewhere and get one more cleaning cycle out of this o ven.

Thank you all,

Ivan Vegvary

Reply to
Ivan Vegvary
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The whole schematic is a bit too complex to take in quickly but these questions I think I can address. Those 975 degree LIMIT and 600 degree LOCK are bimetal switches. You are right, the 975 normally closed, 600 normally opened. When 600 LOCK closes, it activates (opens) the normally closed "Clean Relay" and kills both the BAKE and BROIL elements.

The resistor below is a rheostat and those are not "O"s - those are just symbols for screw terminals. So, it's "S" (south?) "C" (control, wiper) and "N" (north?)

Looks like you may need to poke around the "Clean Relay" at the time it activates to see which voltages are there and which aren't. Perhaps the relay is stuck (commutates mighty high current) and the 600 degree LIMIT is what actually kills it, not the 600 LOCK.

Good luck!

Reply to
passerby

content-574185-.htm

Hey, thanks Passerby. This certainly gives me a trail to follow. But ques tion about the rheostat. So this is probably a 'leave alone' adjust only w hen need to rheostat? Also, what in the world would close the 600 lock? Thanks

Reply to
Ivan Vegvary

Sorry, Ivan, not sure what you mean by "leave alone" - that rheostat appears to be your temperature control setting for the oven. The symbols in the thermostat area are a bit weird, I give you that. The little triangle at the end of the switch usually denotes manual control (with a handle or knob). But limit switches are usually bimetal (and in any case can't have manual control). So the Limit 950 looks like a wrong symbol, it has to be something like the other two limit switches below it, to the left: FAN LIMIT 175 F and 600 LIMIT further down

- those are definitely bimetal and change state automatically as the temperature exceeds the preset limit.

The 600 LOCK contact in the thermostat though must be the "Self Clean" position of the temperature handle or whatever switch turns the "Self Clean" feature on. So, the 600 LOCK must be manual (and the symbol suggests that) but 600 LIMIT is bimetal, trips by temperature.

Reply to
passerby

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