I hard faced my shovel

I found a hard facing wire made just for the 115 volt MIG welders. It is a flux core wire so no shielding gas is used. So I hard faced the tiller tines and then did a shovel. My ground here is so full of rocks that even my expensive tempered shovels wear very fast on the tips. Tired of this so I tried hard facing one. I did have some trouble with burn through at first because the hard facing wire needs a minimum amperage which was really a little too high for the thin shovel blade. So after welding as if I was using a stitch timer I got the hang of it and filled in the holes where I burned through. Then I ground the welds flat and sharpened the shovel. The difference in wear is huge! Not only is the tip not wearing concave it is staying sharp. Very handy for cutting through black and salmon berry roots and canes. Now I am going to do my other shovels. The wire is spendy, 17 bucks a pound, but is worth every penny. And I got it on sale for 11 bucks a pound so even better. Eric

Reply to
etpm
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That might be a good job for a copper backing plate. I got good results from it when practicing but couldn't fit it into the tight curved space I was welding on the car fender.

Reply to
Jim Wilkins

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-jsw

Reply to
Jim Wilkins

If you can find one, this is what a powder torch excels at doing. Remember to only do one side so it wears sharp.

Reply to
Ecnerwal

Which Side? On the tiller tines especially. As the tines spin they describe a cylinder. Should the hard facing be applied to the outside or inside of this imaginary cylinder?

Reply to
etpm

Per the ag engineering department which taught me to weld, you should apply the hardface to the side (of the edge) which wears more/faster (when unfaced.) They suggested using it just enough to wear the paint off the working edges to be sure you were guessing right about that (and where it was really needed), and to hardface from new rather than starting with old and dull if at all possible, prevention being easier than a whole lot of build-up to get the shape corrected, or hardfacing when it was already dulled to the point of being misshapen (and then preserving that poor shape with a layer of hardface.

On shovels, I tend to do the back or outside. I _think_ that would also be true of the "L" shaped tiller tines, but you could do worse than to reshape them to "sharp", put some paint on, and run them for a minute or three to verify.

Reply to
Ecnerwal

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