King-Seeley Drill Press / Chuck Removal

Why to removeing the chuck? Take large hex key and tighten into chuck. Use this to hold chuck fimbly. Turn knurlded collard by hand same direction as drilling as it screws down it will push on back of chuchj and force it off. #33 is taper of spinlder which is forcefit to chuckj only and not threaded on. Some old chuckers have threadedd collard part of chuck but King Sealy not like . Hilde and I have a King Sealy mattresses and sllep happy for years. It is good to been alive and coundting blessings. Happy News Year to you from coldier New englands! A Babin & Sons ISO 9000 xcertified jobshop, rebuildings to refurbers of machinery tools and, custom pool cues and covers, K-mART CASHIER #!@ BRISTol cONN

I have one. You unscrew that collar. Doing so pulls the chuck off the adapter. I think it's a great idea. Can't tell you the number of people that I know who have had the chuck come loose when only simple tapers are used. You need a wrench that fits the holes- spanner.

Pete Stanaitis

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mechanized_robot wrote:

It's "Jacobs", not Jacobson. Unless they had asian knockoffs back then.

My drill press also has a J33 taper mounted chuck. The easiest way to get the chuck off is with a pair of J2 and another pair of J3 wedges. Neither quite fits J33, but usually work anyway. I've never seen wedges for J33; don't know why.

One uses the wedges in pairs, nose to nose, to force the chuck off the spindle. The wedges provide a direct and symmetric separation force.. Prying with a prybar can work, but tends to mangle things.

The wedges are called "Drill Chuck Removal Wedges" or the like and can be gotten from many suppliers. For instance, MSC catalog numbers

Joe Gwinn

Now that I understand the process, it could not be more straightforward. Many thanks to everyone for the prompt replies. I really appreciate that.

A quick aside on this drill press. I cannot recall how many times I have gone to buy a drill press and have not shelled out the money because the unit was an import POS. I started checking craigslist on a fairly regular basis and this one came up for $100. I figured I would dicker with the seller but when I saw the machine and how well made it was, I handed him a Franklin and said "Thank you!". It is truly a peach.

I have this same press in the floor model. You're right - it's a great press. Mine was a little cheaper though - $25.00 from a former employer. I improved it a great deal by installing a DC motor & control.

That is a great modification. What motor controller did you use?

A KB Electronics model KBIC.

Top posted to annoy myself...

I can e-mail you (or anyone else for that matter) a PDF file showing how J33 or similar tapers are dealt with.

McMaster has J6 wedge sets that work great on J33s too.

Regards, Joe Agro, Jr. (800) 871-5022 (908) 542-0244 Automatic / Pneumatic Drills:

I'd be interested. My email is real.

J6 seems awfully large for J33, unless I misunderstand the progression of J sizes.

Joe Gwinn

It has been sent.

It is a bit specialized for my product, but shows the process in a fairly straight forward manner. There is no such thing as a J33 wedge set that I know of... The J6 wedges work perfectly but sometimes you have to "sharpen" the tips if the chuck is seated close to the top of the taper.

Regards, Joe Agro, Jr. (800) 871-5022 (908) 542-0244 Automatic / Pneumatic Drills:

And received.

Thanks,

Joe Gwinn