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more on welding - pic of weld

The sticking trouble might have come from the rod being hot- a hot 7018 will stick faster than cold (especially restrikes of a short rod without allowing it to cool enough).

Did you happen to get Airco brand rod? I really dislike that stuff- it's made by Lincoln but it's different from Lincoln AC7018.

Honestly, for a first succesful bead that's not bad. It looks like you had too long of an arc- keep it as short as you can. On thin stuff, root penetration is good to have and you get that by running hot with a fast travel. Gunner's suggestion to go to 3/32" is a good one- I use 3/32" for a lot of work.

The suggestion to try a 7014 is also good advice. That runs very nice on AC and gives an attractive weld. There's a lot of slag to it and it's got a rather soft arc- if you're not paying attention you can get slag inclusions in a big way. Running a bit uphill helps with this, as does, again, a short arc and fairly fast travel.

You could try a 6013, but I hate that rod.. When I was a kid, going to the VoTech school, that's all they would let us run. I struggled with that rod and finally did some good work, but when I got on a job and they gave me some 7018 I was thrilled at how nice it ran.

You can get a MIG, but I always try to discourage anyone from having a MIG (or fluxcore) as a primary machine. Don't be deceived by the theory "it's faster", 'cause for general fab work it's not necessarily that way.

Also, 7018 strikes best if you scratch it- tapping is asking for it to stick. Keep something handy that's not grounded to give a couple of good taps to break the flux off the end before restriking.

John

Reply to
JohnM
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I think you are giving up too soon on the stick. I suggested 6013, you insist on working with 7018 Your weld looked fine with the 7018, the sticking problem is endemic with 7018

Stick vs Mig: If you can consistently start a sick rod, your project might go 10% faster with a MIG. Cleanup is also faster on the MIG. Leaving a cold bead on one side of the weld happens with both Mig and stick, it's just more obvious on the stick weld.

If you want an excuse to go get a new tool, have at it! (Insert Tim Allen grunt here) If you want to get the job done in minimal amount of time, then not plan to do any other welding for a while, spend the time working on the stick welder. If you spent 2 full hours over a couple of days running 6013 rod downhand on some scrap plate, you will be doing great. You would spend more time than that just loading up and unpacking the new MIG, not to mention the $600 to $1200 for the new 220 volt MIG.

wander over to sci.engr.jo>

Reply to
RoyJ

I'd up the current a bit and get the top part of the weld to wick better to the vertical. You have a lump where you should have a fillet.

-- Why isn't there an Ozone Hole at the NORTH Pole?

Reply to
Bob May

Thanks again for all the tips..i will respond more as I try different things.

I obtained some 3/32" 6013, and am practicing with that. I can't find 7014 at the local store or home depot..will have to wait till tuesday to go to a real store.

I ran a bead of the 3/32 down a piece of scrap tube, just on the flat, and it does seem to just drag along quite a bit easier than the 7018.

One important question I have:

It would make part of the design simpler if I can weld the tubes one on top of the other at 90degrees instead of a 90 degree butt joint.

Is this going to be ok? I will try one and post a picture.

Rick

Reply to
Rick

Cutting might be easier (depends on your equipment). Design easier? I kind of doubt this. Welding will be a tad harder, and the optics will be ugly. :-)

I would be ashamed to show such a joint to someone. ;-))

Nick

Reply to
Nick Müller

Yeah, I nixed that idea anyway. I just needed to be able to pass cables through the tubes, and didn't want to add 2 more welds to the structure. I figured it out now though.

On the plus side, I made a quick and dirty welding table out of a 3 foot by 4 foot piece of 1 inch thick pool table slate, which anyone can get free at their local pool table dealer. (They sometimes have 1 of a matched set of 3 break, and they toss the other 2).

It makes *such* a nice precision non coductive surface to weld on, and it is solid as..well ..a rock :-)

I am getting a bit better welds with the 3/32 6013, but I am having problems in the first 1/3 of the weld with slag inclusions...the final 2/3 actually looks like a nice fillet weld. Maybe I should just weld 2/3 of the joint :-)

rick

Reply to
Rick

Now this would have been an argument.

Non conductive? I prever welding on a table that is conductive. You just hook ground to the table and don't have to re-clamp gnd whenever you move work.

Well, this is the hard part. You have to learn to see the puddle and not to look at the slag. I don't know your numbering system. I think the easiest stick are the cellulose-type. But they are more expensive, stink more and are harder to start.

Nick

Reply to
Nick Müller

Your bad first 1/3 is usually due to racing off before the weld puddle has fully formed. Try starting about 1/8" from the end, let the puddle form, move to the end, and do your weld. Once you get the hang of starting and the puddle, turn your amperage down, it gives you a lot more time to move the puddle around.

You said a 90 degree butt joint? I assume that means an end into a side??

Weld>

Reply to
RoyJ

There is no slag (or smoke) with MIG. :

Reply to
Don Foreman

Where on the west coast? If you are in So. Cal, Id be happy to let you play with any of the welders I have, stick, tig, mig.

Gunner

"Considering the events of recent years, the world has a long way to go to regain its credibility and reputation with the US." unknown

Reply to
Gunner

Interesting.....

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Btw...Dan-mig welders are made in Denmark...

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My Dan Mig 200 is at least 20 yrs old and is still percolating just hunky dory, even after spending most of its life in a muffler/autobody shop.

Gunner

"Considering the events of recent years, the world has a long way to go to regain its credibility and reputation with the US." unknown

Reply to
Gunner

Id go nuts with that table..my steel top welding table is grounded directly to the machine(s) with a flying ground clamp for stuff that is rusty and wont make contact very well with the table top.

Becareful of spalling..where you heat the rock up really hot in one place and a chunk pops out and hits you in the face or the gonads...

But it sounds like you are getting a really good start at doing it right.

Gunner

"Considering the events of recent years, the world has a long way to go to regain its credibility and reputation with the US." unknown

Reply to
Gunner

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