Need Cincinnati shaper tool holder

We have a donated Cincinnati 12" mechanical shaper in the machine shop port ion of our blacksmith shop at the Nowthen Historical Power Association grou nds. It sat there for several years, but this weekend we got it going and a ll the functions work. But the Tool holder is missing, so we can't throw an y chips on the floor. If anybody has such a tool holder or knows where I might get one, please l et me know. I say it's a 12 inch model because that's the size of the table .

I'm guessing that it looks like a large lantern type tool holder that you' d find on a lathe. I can't find any model number on the machine. The hole i n the clapper box is about 1.383" diameter at the outboard end, and seems t o taper to about 1.372 at the inboard end. The clapper box is 1.235 thick.

Any leads would sure be appreciated.

Pete Stanaitis ----------------

Reply to
spaco
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This is a very common shaper, Pete, and you should have no trouble getting info -- and, probably, parts. Some are still in use, doing things like squaring up mold bases, although the 24" model probably is preferable for that job.

Here is a page of manuals that includes some for Cincinnati shapers:

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Yes, the toolholder is a "lantern" type (in older professional literature, it's usually called a "rocker" type).

Reply to
Ed Huntress

Thanks for the tips so far. I goofed and didn't make it clear that the part I need is the lantern typ e tool post itself, not the took holder (which I have a few of around here.

The link to the Cincinnati parts manual was very helpful. My problem now i s that there is no relief on the backside of the clapper for the flange on the tail of the lantern type tool post. So I don't understand what would k eep it from pulling out of the hole when the bolt that holds the tool or to ol holder in place is tightened up. There are two set screws in the clappe r that would tighten the lantern style tool post in place, but I don't thin k they were designed for the outword pulling force that the tightening-bolt would produce. The clapper in the picture in the parts manual SEEMS to s how that the backside of the clapper is relieved, but that's no so on the m achine we have. Now I am wondering if maybe there is a relief cut into the head itself to provide clearance for the lantern tool post's flange. I am about 120 mile s away from the machine and just got back from 3 days of fairly intense bla cksmithing, so I am not ready to hop back into the van again. But, we have until next year to get it done.

Pete Stanaitis

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Reply to
spaco

Thanks for the offer to "look around", Gunner. I was surprised to find no room for the lantern style tool post flange on the backside of the clapper, but it hadn't occurred to me whether the back face of the clapper is held away from the front face of the clapper box in some way. Or there might be recess in the clapper box itself. I'd rather not make a new clapper because I would be concerned about gett ing the taper pin hole in exactly the right spot. Still haven't figured out why there are two setscrews that could hold the tool post in place. I can't believe they'd hold the lantern tool post in place when one cranks on the tool tightening screw. Maybe I do have to take a trip back up there, armed with measuring equipm ent and some good lighting. In the manual I saw, it showed that the model number may be located someplace on the front of the ram, and I'd like to ha ve that knowledge too.

Pete Stanaitis

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Reply to
spaco

Ran a shaper off and on for quite a few years, no clapper, simply mounted the tool solid.

--which begs the question, why exactly is it that the clapper is so often missing...

Reply to
PrecisionmachinisT

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Based on the one on my 7" Rockwell/Delta/AMMCO one, it is quite similar to a lantern style toolpost -- except that the collar around it is a flat ring, not a cupped one with a rocker to allow adjustment of angle the way the lantern style toolpost in a lathe is set up.

Make your own. Probably something like drill rod, turn it to fit into the clapper plate with a shoulder at the bottom to keep it from pulling through, and then mill a slot for it.

The tool holder which goes in there, unlike most of the ones for a lathe, don't hold the bit at an angle, and have an interesting clamp with a castle style guide for the bit so it can be set straight on, at

45 degrees either side or 90 degrees either side (and maybe even 135 degrees for some awkward setups. :-)

Oh yes -- beware of where the chips go. That one may be big enough to be shooting hot chips like one a friend operated which set fire to papers on the foreman's desk over twenty feet away. :-)

Good Luck, DoN.

Reply to
DoN. Nichols

How much room is there in the box under the clapper plate? if there is enough, you don't need the step in the hole.

Check the cavity under the clapper plate in the clapper box.

Enjoy, DoN.

Reply to
DoN. Nichols

A Grade 5 bolt is a good starting point if you can find one with a large enough shank. I'd buy one long enough that the tapped hole is in the shank because rolling the bolt's threads work-hardens the steel under them.

Fastenal has large square-headed setscrews.

-jsw

Reply to
Jim Wilkins

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