opinions on Lincoln Precision TIG?

I like mine fine. It's not built for heavy duty TIG, but it does all the work a 70+ year old can handle. I sold all my heavy equipment. Bugs

Use Google and look for comments by Ernie. He teaches welding at a community college. The Lincoln welders are great, and I think they include more advanced controls as standard than Miller. The water cooled torch becomes important at higher currents. The 185 will probably be as much as you need for stainless. Stainless does not conduct heat as well as regular steel so less current is needed. Aluminum is where the extra current is needed.

If I were you, I would also look at inverter welders. They are smaller and lighter. I forget which one Ernie says is the best buy. Most inverter welders do not provide AC, and are therefore not especially good for Aluminum. But one of them does ( not Miller or Lincoln ).

Dan

The 275 won't overload your 100-amp service. I think the 185 would serve your needs well for far less $. You'd need the higher current of the 275 for prolonged welding of heavy aluminum, but you could certainly do up to 3/16" aluminum with the 185. You could probably do 1/4" al though it might take a bit longer and/or require multiple passes. If you plan to do a lot of work with 1/4" or larger aluminum then you'll want the bigger machine. Otherwise, I think the 185 would be quite sufficient. It'll do 1/4" stainless and mild steel very nicely.

Note that the 185 has only a 15% dutycycle at full current. That's based on a 10-minute cycle, so 8.5 minutes "rest" after 1.5 minutes of arc time at full load. That could be a serious issue in a production shop, but probably a non-issue for your use. 1.5 minutes is a lot of continuous arc time for hobby work.

A water-cooled torch is not necessary, but they are very nice for small work because they're physically small and easy to handle. They're also nice in that you don't have to wait for them to cool before changing tungstens -- and you'll do a lot of that at first with TIG. When (not if) you dunk the tungsten you must stop, break off the contaminated tip and regrind it.

They aren't expensive; the Weldcraft WP-25 might be a good choice at a bit over $100. You don't need a full-blown water cooler, just a pump and a bucket. You can get a refurbished ProCon coolant pump for $118:

On Ernie's recommendation I bought a Thermal Arc 185 TSW, which I'm guessing is the machine to which you're referring. AC, DC, pulsing, sequencing, very small and light, and of course, it's exceedingly purple. I like mine.

Peter

I have always used a hookup to our culinary water for my torch, and run the small amount of water involved to waste. It works fine and eliminates the need for a pump and cooling unit. May not be good for everyone, but it works for me.

Harold

William....

As long as you run a filter on the line. Otherwise you can get a buildup in the torchhead.

It is what I have been doing for 12 years.

Water pump info

You need 50 psi water pressure to get the water through the head.

You can buy just the pump and build your own water cooler with a 5 gallon water bucket.

These guys sell the pumps direct

Depco Pump Company

Business Hours: -Monday thru Friday 7:30 AM to 5:30 PM ---Eastern Time

Tell them you are interested in the constant pressure gear pumps used for welding water coolers.

They have an Italian brand that works very well called Fluido-tec.

Procon replacement Fluido-tec PA301X-100PSI $86.36

Oberdorfer

These pumps require a 1/3 HP 1750 RPM motor

Another source is Grainger

Product Category: Pumps & Plumbing > Pumps > Gear Pumps Description: Bronze Carbonator-Mount Rotary Gear Pump Head without Adjustable Relief Valve, 1/4 inch connectors

Your Price: $108.25 Grainger Item#: 2P381 Manufacturer: TEEL Mfg. Model#: CBN2 Catalog Page: 3270

The pump model used by Tweco is: Procon #101C100F11B060

Good point, and I thank you for the tip. I didn't have a filter when I resided in Utah, but our water system here is filtered, so I'm likely in pretty good shape.

When I built the shop I installed a water hookup at the welding station, plus a discharge line that goes to our rain catch basin. Everything is concealed in the wall, so it's a clean setup. Interestingly, I've never assembled the system, but I'm in process right now---I have to weld some stainless pipe to steel pipe, plus attach some mounting brackets. I'm putting a couple antennas on the roof of the new house we're building, and they're being mounted to the reinforced trusses instead of surface mounting them. That will eliminate the need for guy wires and multiple holes in the roof. I don't want any leaks to deal with in the future.

The stainless portion of the 1-1/2" pipe will be above the roof, with the steel pipe in the attic space, where a little rust makes no difference. The pipe in the attic runs from the top to bottom chord of the trusses, which have been braced to prevent any movement. The antenna masts will be mounted by bolts, not nailed. I intend to TIG, with 308 filler for the dissimilar metal connection, and 70S 2 for the all steel connections. If you see any problems with my plan, I'd appreciate some guidance.

Harold

Get some 309L for the dissimilar metals joints. It works much better for such things.

Thanks, Ernie. I'll check with the two suppliers in "the big city" on Tuesday for some 309L..

Harold

Thanks for the information, gentlemen. I'm leaning towards the 275, I will go talk to my local supplier tomorrow and see what kind of prices they are quoting. Looking forward to learning a new technique!

Al