OT - sewing machine repair

I'd try applying a bit of WD40 to the hinge bearing.

Bit of a sucker for sewing machines myself, bought an Husqvarna computerised one at garage sale. Works beaut on straight stitch, but smashes needle immediately upon selecting anything else. Full of stepper motors to do what was once done with simple mechanisms - I guess its brains are scrambled. Not worth the effort of learning how to fix, I'll avoid these in future.

Jordan

Reply to
Jordan
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hi all i'm hoping one of you fine gentlemen will be able to help me gain some wife approval points...

she has a husqvarna (viking) '2000 SL' sewing machine (actually a couple, along with a bunch of others! - we arent the only species who has to have more than one of anything!)

this one, and i think also the other, gets stuck in reverse. When opened, i can return it to forwards by applying a moderate amount of assistance to the spring return, but there is no way it will return by itself. This machine has 'lifetime lubrication' so there is no way to add oil. The action is smooth, but stiff.

Any suggestions? any idea what the original lube might be? i guess white lithium style grease, does that dry out over time?

I could disassemble but i'd rather not as i am not familiar with re-timing if that was needed.

appreciate all suggestions!

russ (from Oz)

Reply to
x

How is a gum-forming water displacer going to help in a lint-heavy environment, please?

Reply to
Dave Hinz

If the old lube has become thick and gunky you may be able to wash it out using aerosol pack CO contact cleaner (from Atkins / maybe Dick Smith Electronics / Repco / Coventry's). I would use white or silicone grease too, note I _don't_ mean silicon heatsink grease. Others may know a better solution, maybe try phoning local sewing machine service company. I've fixed similar things where the grease has thickened through heat, aging and dust. I have not had problems but check the contact cleaner will not harm any plastic casings or gears etc. A syringe may help get the grease in where it is needed.

I just remembered that decades ago Singer used to supply a very light oil in a plastic squeeze bottle with new sewing machines. Maybe this would still work! Good luck.

Reply to
Robbo

On Tue, 6 Nov 2007 23:22:57 +1100, with neither quill nor qualm, "x" quickly quoth:

My pedal (on a CONSEW model 210 and universal table) has a brake connected through the clutch, so doublecheck that the pedal isn't all the way back when you spin the machine by hand.

Actual stiffness in a sewing machine usually indicates thread caught in places it shouldn't be. DAMHIKT. Triplecheck the bobbin area, disassemble the drive foot plates to check there, etc.

Good question. Does the local sewing machine repairman have any suggestions or carry Husky service manuals?

Grok that. Write to Husky and ask for manuals and answers to your questions if they persist. And learn how to time sewing machines. Women will cook wondrous goodies for you if you do, and your wife won't mind it. ;)

----------------------------------------------------------------- When I die, I'm leaving my body to science fiction. --Steven Wright ----------------------------

Reply to
Larry Jaques

For cleaning all the grease and junk out of anything, get Brake Clean from the auto parts store. Works great on all sorts of mechanisms. There will be no lube left, you'll have to re-lube after it dries.

Karl

Reply to
Karl Townsend

not sure of the husky but when the janomi sewing machine and overlocker stiffen up I remove all the fluff from the mechanisms and lube with sewing machine oil. they run like clocks for a few years after that.

shouldnt be any need to disassemble.

Stealth Pilot

Reply to
Stealth Pilot

Especially one that turns to sticky, indelible wax when the volatiles evaporate? /mark

Reply to
Mark F

CAUTION: There may not be any plastic gears or cams left intact, either. Some solvents used as "Brake Cleaner" are very aggressive to plastics, and newer sewing machines have lots of plastic parts.

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Reply to
Bruce L. Bergman

Try yahoo groups- there's several groups that are dedicated to husky (viking) sewing machines. Pat

Reply to
patrick mitchel

I was thinking of its penetrating and dissolving actions. Good idea to clean it up and lubricate properly afterwards. A poor workman blames his tools.

Reply to
Jordan

I can't resist asking the obvious question. did you change the foot plate to the wide hole when you were selecting other than straight stitch? I've done the same thing a couple of times when in a hurry and, as you said, smashed the needle.

Jim Chandler

Reply to
Jim Chandler

No, the wide hole is standard. It could be that the mechanical timing is out, but I doubt it and have lost interest in this machine anyway. Makes me think: should I avoid CNC metalworking machinery?

Reply to
Jordan

I take the point, 3in1 OK?

Reply to
Jordan

Better to use something designed as a penetrating solvent rather than a Water Displacing liquid. Gerry :-)} London, Canada

Reply to
Gerald Miller

I learned a bit of sewing from my mom and sister, both very talented, and have been looking for a machine for patching jeans, etc. Found a beautiful Phaff with all the original accessories, manuals, and carrying case, for a mere $50.

Mom did some checking for me and it was made between the early 50's and early 60's, but has a low serial number, so likely it's older than I am.

I did a bit of research, and these sell for up to $750 depending on condition!

The sewing machine I really want is the antique Singer cobbler's sewing machine that has been in the family since the 1920's. Over the past few decades it's sewn up riding boots, leathers, and seat covers, and ought to last another century!

Jon

Reply to
Jon Anderson

I got a Singer 111W155 Walking Foot that was manufactured in 1957 according to the serial number. It will sew a lot of stuff, including leather, but I bought it to do canvas awnings and shade cloth material, which it will do without breaking a sweat. I have yet to break it out and try it. I do know an EXCELLENT sewing machine repairman in Las Vegas that has been fixing and redoing machines for thirty odd years. I will probably take it to him first just to be sure.

Problem is, I got the base and motor, and everything that came with it new, and it' a moose to move. And I probably paid too much for it ............ $250.

Looking forward to making Sunbrella house awnings all around this summer with square metal frames.

Steve

Reply to
SteveB

Pblaster or similar. 3n1 has little penetrating properties.

Gunner

Political Correctness is a doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical liberal minority, and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.

Reply to
Gunner Asch

Check the various second hand stores. Goodwill, St. Vincent D'Paul and so forth. One can regularly find NICE sewing machines for $20-30

Gunner

Political Correctness is a doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical liberal minority, and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.

Reply to
Gunner Asch

I'd use Singer sewing machine oil and grease myself. Any sewing machine place should have it. Karl

Reply to
kfvorwerk

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