Plastic fuel tank repair -Report

If anyone here is interested...

After a fair amount of discussion and advice from the crew here at RCM, I got my plastic Jeep fuel tank fixed.

After removing the tank, and clearing it of nasty flamable vapors (several fill/dump/repeat cycles with water over several days and a several week bake in the hot sun, openings up, of course) and much pondering, I decided I had nothing to loose, as the tank was no good anyhow. So I did a quick test with a junk screwdriver. I heated the blade up with a small torch and touched the hot metal to a little nub sticking out of the top of the tank. The plastic melted and I found that I could reshape it, and it rehardened when it cooled. Neat-O, thermoplastic!

So I applied the hot blade treatment to the 2 small cuts in the tank, melting the stuff as deeply as I dared without softening it all of the way through, and sort of smoothed over the damage and fused it until it looked closed up. Did not come out too badly. Beacuse of the way this tank sits in the vehicle, and the way the skid plates and whatnot go in, it is a hugh pain-in-the-neck to install and remove. So I went the extra mile and tried to seal it with some sort of adhesive. JB weld did not adhere to the plastic very well, and the locktite fuel tank repair stuff the someone suggested specifically says not for plastic tanks. So I tried one of the first suggestions I got from you guys and tried SEAL-All. This stuff worked great! it hardened to a nice skin that I built up in several layers, and I spread over maybe twice the area of the original patch, just for good measure. The solvent in it seemed to partially disolve the plastic of the tank, so the stuff fused nicely to the surface. I did "bench testing" on the repair for a few days while we did some other work to the truck, then put it in.

Been in the truck a couple of weeks now, and seems to be a solid repair.

Thanks for all of the ideas and help. It can be done! Another small victory for the cheapskates.

Thanks all!

-AL

Reply to
Al A.
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Hello, all,

I made my own fuel pump for my lawn tractor. (Long story,

1968 Wisconsin one-cyl engine, carb vibrated to bits, poor fuel feed when on hills, etc. So, I put a Kei Hin carb off a Honda 450 motorcycle engine on it, and it runs great, but needs a head of fuel above carb.) So, I made a little pump out of a floppy drive motor, eccentric, rubber diaphragm, and valves made out of ball bearings, springs and standard flare fittings.

This all works great, but the diaphragms keep wearing out. I started with some .060" Neoprene sheet that works well, but lasts only 3 years or so. When it fails, it starts spraying gasoline all over the place, which is NOT a good idea! I bought some material specifically sold as "a diphragm material for fuel pumps, etc." from MSC. It has nylon or similar webbing in it. It is too stiff, but mostly works, but it only lasts about ONE YEAR! What happens is the "rubber" ,material swells up and disintegrates after long exposure to fuel. The fuel pump diphragm in my 1989 Toyota is the original factory piece, and is still working, after a LOT more time and 137,000 miles. Does anyone know where to get this kind of material, used in auto fuel pumps? I need something that is pretty soft, as the motor doesn't have much power, and that will last a long time, as I'm tired of rebuilding this thing. Also, letting it run until failure is going to involve me in a big fireball on of these days, and I want to avoid that!

Hmm, maybe I already know the answer, JC Whitney?

Thanks in advance for all suggestions!

Jon

Reply to
Jon Elson

Al A. wrote in article ...

There is a two-part Devcon product called "Plastic Weld" that I used to sell to snowmobilers specifically to repair the ABS plastic noses.

It is, in a manner of speaking, an epoxy that actually works on plastics.

Bob Paulin - R.A.C.E. Race Car Chassis Analysis & Setup Services

Reply to
Bob Paulin

Jon,

That's really the hard way! Why not just get a small Mikunu diaphram pumper and tap into the intake vacumn to pulse it? For the easiest plumming, use a tee connector to feed excess flow back to the tank and leave the carb "as is". If your into hi-G manouvers with your tractor, modify the carb as in shifter kart race carbs...take out the float & needle asm, use two pumps, one in, one out, and stuff the float chamber with fuel cell foam to damp the sloshing. Out fuel pickup is inserted into float chamber with the open end of the tube at the same level the fuel sits at with a working float/needle. Works really slick, but is hardly needed for ordinary purposes.

Reply to
Bill Martin

Why not just fit a standard electric fuel pump?

Reply to
Jim Levie

Yup, I'm not surprised at all. That stuff is great!

Lane

Reply to
Lane

Told you a hot blade was the way to do it. Plastic moulding is my business. Mark K.

Reply to
markzoom

Sounds like you are having problems with alcohol in the fuel disintegrating your elastomers. Think methanol/ethanol friendly and it may help.

Reply to
Dave Erce

Gotta be about the best possible place to get info, help, advice, and knowledge is right here on RCM. There seems to be no limit to the talents and abilities of this group. Between the posters here and all the help they provide, and the dropbox which is a HUGE perk for this group, I give a hearty THANK YOU and it's probably the only reason I even stay connected to the internet. Ken.

Reply to
Ken Sterling

McMaster Carr sells buna rubber coated material. I thought about using it to fix an acetylene regulator but ended up making a diaphram out of .010 stainless that I had on hand. The diaphram worked well, but the regulator had other problems.

Dan

Does anyone know where to

Reply to
Dan Caster

The diaphragm from the Toyota was probably made from a material called Viton. It is very rubber-like. It smells like cinnamon when it cut or abraded. Mike H

Reply to
Mike H

IIRC, the stuff they used to use was nitrile rubber with cloth reinforcing. I don't know what's used these days, whatever it is, if you're using pump gas, it's going to have to withstand MTBE, methanol, ethanol and whatever other mouse milks they're running in the gas these days. As you've discovered, neoprene really isn't suited for today's gas. Might be you could get a fuel pump rebuild kit from(wait for it) JC Whitney for some older model car or truck and use that diaphram material. A junk yard would be another source, dismantle a pump off a wreck and use the diaphram from it. Going to have be a fairly old vehicle, fuel injection has been around a long time. I hope you have some provision for emergency pump shutoff.

Stan

Reply to
Stan Schaefer

A place you could start is to call Seal Source inc (800-609-SEAL) they don't have a website. Ask them to look up which materials work with gasoline. I think viton is correct, maybe epdm also? They have a huge cross reference that tells what plastics to use with what. They will order for you whatever you need, but they really are a dealer to hydraulic repair shops, so their prices may be steep. They can alse sell pieces of teflon, either virgin, or glass or bronze filled, oil filled nylon, urethane, and phenolic laminate tubes. They can custom machine hydraulic seals for you too.

Good luck

Gene

Reply to
gene lewis

A regular single-outlet Mikuni fuel pump is under $20... and they normally last thousands of miles. They require no electrical power... just a "pulse" line to a crankcase vent or intake manifold port; and will support at least 30hp (maybe more) on gasoline.

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David

Reply to
David Courtney

Just a thought... Did you design in too much movement on the diaphragm? What sort of pressure limiting do you have in the system (1/2 psi ought to be enough for the carburetor).

Mark Rand RTFM

Reply to
Mark Rand

ya know, an electric fuel pump for a carburreted car is cheap, and a used one ought to cost you no more than $5 - why not use an electric fuel pump?

Reply to
william_b_noble

The little header tank for the carb is 1" copper water pipe, with a float switch in it. If the fuel pump fails to shut off, the air vent back to the tank becomes an overflow drain. The diaphragm has a fender washer about 3/4" OD on each side of it, and the stroke is somewhere around 1/8".

Thanks for all the useful comments, I'll have to do some more research.

Jon

Reply to
Jon Elson

Now don't be too hard on me, I DID take your advice, after all. :)

You did earn the " Told YA so!" for today, however.

I appreciate your (and everybody elses input) very much.

This group has never let me dowm.

Thanks again, AL

Reply to
Al A.

I'll second that, Ken. I've never missed here, even with OT stuff like computer problems, car stuff or whatever. A good 80% of my on-the-web time is spent perusing this group. I often wish I had more to offer in return.

Now, anyone wanna talk gun control? Heh. (Couldn't resist. Excuse me while I don my flameproof suit and hide under the desk...)

-AL

Reply to
Al A.

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