power distribution box

I thought that you are talking about the box in the trailer, am I
missing anything?

i

Under the hood, in front of the driver, assuming it's similar to a '95
F150, which is not a bad bet. Or RTFM.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by
Please don't feed the trolls. Killfile and ignore them so they will go away.

Karl Townsend wrote:

I don't know on a '93, but on a '09 there is the underhood fuse box
(BJB) near the brake MC and the junction box (SJB) in the cab in the
passenger side footwell behind a trim panel.

It's a short ways aft of the battery on my 91 Ranger. The computer
power relay is hidden under it.

jsw

Karl Townsend wrote:

Look for Fuse D in the underhood box. Plus check the trailer relay
itself, it will also be in that box.

--
Steve W.

On Mon, 16 Apr 2012 12:23:26 -0500, Karl Townsend


Follow up. I can't find anything like this. Got sick of following
wires two different days. Even had my better half look.

Top it off, it fixed itself. I really don't like that, cause it will
just break again. And probably when I have a huge load on the trailer.

OTOH, don't know how to fix something that's not broke.

Karl

http://recommendations.ebay.com/92-97-Ford-Truck-F250-F350-POWER-DISTRIBUTION-BOX-COVER-/MESMR?_pvtid=160570686172

jsw

On Tue, 17 Apr 2012 13:36:50 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"


that's a clue, I'll look AGAIN.

damn manual talks about it at length, but they assume its easy to
find.

IIRC (got rid of that truck a few years ago) should be in front of the
master cylinder. Probably too dirty to read the text on it.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by
Please don't feed the trolls. Killfile and ignore them so they will go away.

On Tue, 17 Apr 2012 14:35:20 -0400, Ecnerwal


I found it. Yep right behind the air cleaner box. Don't know how I
owned it 18 years without the need to look for it.

of course, nothing wrong in there. Only thing I can do is get familiar
for the next failure. Can't think of a problem I hate more than an
intermittant electrical failure.

Karl

If I didn't have the full 91 Ford Ranger shop manual set I could have
traced the wiring from the Haynes manual, which has copies of the same
drawings.

On mine the connectors disassemble by removing the colored insert
plugs, and Autozone sells a small kit of replacement Ford connector
pins. Write down the color coding, the factory manual doesn't give the
pinout for all connectors.

jsw

    How about a persistant electrical failure at 20,000 feet? :-)

    Enjoy,
        DoN.

--
                  Remove oil spill source from e-mail
          (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
           --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Tue, 17 Apr 2012 21:36:23 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"

Beat me to it...  

But seriously, fuses can go intermittent, especially ATO and ATM - the
thin element fractures where it meets the thicker end pin, and unless
you look REAL close you won't see the little black line where it
shorts across and then goes open across.  

If nothing else, isolate the fuse on that circuit, and change it on
General Principles with a known new American fuse (this is NOT the
place to use that Harbor Freight fuse assortment) , and the gremlin
should go away.  

--<< Bruce >>--

On Tue, 17 Apr 2012 17:34:07 -0500, Karl Townsend


 Was it raining?
If you have ANY windsheild leak on those trucks the electrics go
crazy. Friend's truck (a 150, not a 350) would turn the lights on,
blow the horn, start the wipers, or have the wipers quit - all kind's
of strange stuff - and it ALL went away 3 months ago or so when he
replaced the windshield - - - - .

On Tue, 17 Apr 2012 13:15:18 -0500, Karl Townsend


  It is, the second time!!

In NYS, we have a highway dept that puts a lot of salt on the roads. Safer,
but the cars rot out. Any time something mysterious goes wrong, it's usually
a bad ground.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
  www.lds.org
.


Top it off, it fixed itself. I really don't like that, cause it will
just break again. And probably when I have a huge load on the trailer.

OTOH, don't know how to fix something that's not broke.

Karl

The military's Preventative Maintenance procedures help a lot, as long
as you don't break it while taking it apart. I've cleaned and
Ox-Gard'ed almost every connector and ground on my truck.

jsw

On Tue, 17 Apr 2012 18:42:44 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"


Two cases come to mind:
- '83 "K" car with electric windows and locks. Master control panel on
the driver's door arm rest, wires routed everywhere by a cable across
the floor pan under the insulation mat under the floor mat under the
feet of the driver. Now where do you suppose it would be most likely
to  find melted salted snow in a vehicle driven under winter
conditions? All of the branches were tee'd off in this area with
connections made by spot welding, granted, these conections were
protected by being covered with a fold of fabric "friction" insulating
tape. Each fold of tape contained a greenish powdery deposit when
exammined.

- '90 Lumina APV with composite body. things like horns, wipers and
ignition stared to fail after ~10 years. Solution? - lots of copper
braid + ring lugs + sheet metal screws/pop rivets bonding failed items
to battery ground terminal.

My only long-term experience with Ox-Gard has been on the TV antenna,
where it keeps the signal strong and aluminum hardware clean for
several years.

Usually I put dielectric grease or LPS-3 on car connectors, but the
Ranger had corrosion I couldn't completely scrub out so I hoped the
zinc particles would break through it. I'm retired and don't have to
drive through salted slush any more.

LPS-3 is about as good as anything else I've tried on battery
terminals.

When I bought the truck Ford sold a special hi-temp grease for disk
brake caliper sliding surfaces. They later discontinued it and
recommended silicone dielectric grease instead.

jsw