Removing arbor from Jacobs #14

Whew, it worked. I needed to remove a 2MT arbor from a 1/2" Jacobs chuck. I tried ice & acetone, no joy. Then propane torch to chuck body, followed by ice & acetone (torch work separated from acetone). Off it came! Slight rust in JT3, I'll use very light abrasive pad to remove.

I'm going to install a straight shank arbor so I can use this in my Hardinge TM. Or Delta 11" headstock, for that matter. Need to drill a clearance hole for the boring head to bore 3/8". 5/16" isn't quite large enough, and I don't have 5C collets beyond 16th's, except a few specials.

I'm building a belt grinder for my son's knife making. The parts in question are the cylinder pivot for the pneumatic belt change (3-way valve) and tension adjustment (pressure regulator). The grinder frame verticals are 2" pipe, manifolded together with 1" square tube. That's the air tank. The whole thing will be similar to a KMG from Beaumont Metal Works, with a few additions.

I'd rather stay home and work on it, but it's back to the coast for a week of fishing. My wife is fanatical about it.

Pete Keillor

Reply to
Pete Keillor
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Do you know about the wedges?

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-jsw

Reply to
Jim Wilkins

Yes, I used them. Don't work so hot on a 2MT arbor, though. It's too small. I clamped the hell out of the arbor in aluminum jaw inserts in my Wilton 5" machinist vise.

Pete

Reply to
Pete Keillor

In the past when wedges and other methods didn't work I drilled a hole inside the jaw opening into the body and used a drift.

CP

Reply to
Pilgrim

When I needed them a couple years ago, I couldn't find any locally so put a brass bar lightly in the chuck and gave it a swat with a BFH.

Reply to
geraldrmiller

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