Skill saw for thick steel?

I just got frustrated trying to use my 14" Milwaukee abrasive cutoff saw to cut a 45 degree angle on 1 inch by 1 inch steel bar. The cut length is around 1.4 inches, and that seems to be more or less the limit with abrasive cutoff saws, in my experience. The blade seems to get duller and duller (or at least it cuts more and more poorly) with longer cut lengths in steel. I made it through two cuts, and bogged down on the third cut. As long as the cut length is half an inch or less, the abrasive saws work well.

I know that several people around here promote using a Skil saw or other worm drive wood circular saw for cutting steel, using Morse Metal Devil or Tenryu Steelpro steel cutting blades. How will this perform on cutting thick steel, such as my 1 inch by 1 inch bar with a 45 degree angle cut? I have an oxy-acetylene torch, but the cuts are really rough, even if I use an angle iron as a guide. Or is there some other alternative that doesn't cost hundreds or thousands of dollars? I don't have room for a cold saw or bandsaw, unfortunately. What are the practical limits of the Skil saw for cutting steel?

Richard

Reply to
Richard Ferguson
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Your cutoff blade may be glazing up. Try dressing it with a dressing stone.

A little 4x6" saw doesn't take up much room, you'll use it a lot. Or buy a portaband, although they actually cost *more* and do less.

GWE

Richard Fergus> I just got frustrated trying to use my 14" Milwaukee abrasive cutoff saw

Reply to
Grant Erwin

Are you applying constant pressure on the blade? Don't.

For thick cuts I usually cut a bit, then back off, cut, then back off. With constant pressure I've found the blade and metal get too hot and the ability to cut decreases. If you cut incrementally the metal and blade can cool somewhat.

Try it.

-Tom

Reply to
TT

Also important is to make sure you're using an aluminum oxide blade, not silicon carbide. If the blade you have is intended for masonry, it's silicon carbide. It makes a world of difference to use the proper one.

Harold

Reply to
Harold and Susan Vordos

It is a perfect job for one of the famous Chiwanese 4*6 band saws from the usual emporiums of Oriental Tools. They are astonishingly good value form money, and will power through a job like that much easier and more accurately than an abrasive saw (and cheaper to run as well) There is a 6*4 bandsaw FAQ which is worth reading Geoff

Reply to
geoff m

Richard, I haven't tried angle cuts but I have cut through 1 1/4" diameter cold rolled (probably 1018) steel bar stock with no problems. I use my metal devil blade on a model 77 worm drive skill saw. Worked great. Got a clean cut and was able to pick up the cutoff as soon as it hit the floor with bare hands and not burn myself. Little to no discolorization of the stock from heat although the chips the blade throws (and I do mean throws) are hot and blue. Wear eye, ear and skin protection. All my cuts so far have been with the saw hand held and stock in a vise. Some type of fixture would be nice to guide the saw for 45* mitre or other angle cuts. The blade cost me around $60 at D&D saw here in San Diego. Probably a local supplier where you live. Works well on thin wall square tube stock as well.

Bill

Reply to
Bill Schoenbeck

Wow, it is true that you have to say things over and over for people to get it. Looks like I should be buying the red labeled ones (ferrous metal) instead of the green labeled ones (masonry) for my quicky saw.

I haven't noticed a difference cause the saw blows through most jobs , but I'll take your word for it. Maybe I just forgot the last time I bought some , cause I have about 4 green ones. They sure look the same. Got me, I found that those type of blades for even cutting cinder block is like having a hack saw blade on upside down compared to diamond.

I've never been fawned of chop saws, I think the main problem is that they are cutting on the same arch at all times. Once they reach a certain surface area they just stop, mostly. I see it happen with the hand held quicky saw all the time. It will up and stop cutting and just moving the arch of the blade will make it start cutting again (even cutting hard concrete). If this is dressing the blade on the hump or edge of the cut or changing the surface area I don't know, but it sure does help.

Say I want to cut a 1' X 1' X 1" steel plate in half, I would score a line across the plate with the saw and move back and forth to each edge. Holding it at the edges will let it cut alot faster than if I hold the saw in the middle of the plane. Obviously abrasive saws are not the right tool to use, something is wrong the angle of attack, surface area, or the blade glazing I don't know.

Use a band saw. Oh, I'll call 911 for ya , but that is about it if you want to see how the skill saw works.

Reply to
Sunworshipper

I second that!! I got one of those and it's one of the most used tools in the shop. The blades they come with are crap but I've had very good luck with Morse bimetal blades from Princess Auto.

Ted

Reply to
Ted Edwards

My Milwaukee portable bandsaw goes thru stuff like that unbelievably fast -- considerably faster than rates I've seen reported with the 4 x

6 horizontal saws. Further, it takes about no space when not being used. If you like, I'll time it going thru 1" x 1" bar. My guess is under 30 seconds. (Last time I did it was last summer)

Jeff Wisnia reports that his Chinese knockoff works just fine. It probably would not last as long as a Milwaukee in constant daily use, but the blade is really what does the cutting so if you put a good Milwaukee blade on the knockoff it should cut well as long as it works at all. HF has one now for $59.99. See

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Reply to
Don Foreman

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