Swamp cooler and up-dux

I found up-dux but 70-bucks for 10-bucks worth of simple parts does not cut it when we need two of them.

I have ordered two metal registers and thinking of cutting holes in the ceiling.

Using some fly screen between the register and the ceiling to keep the spiders and bugs out and we should have an OK exhaust. Yes? No?

I can't see the need for the flap on the up-dux, so here's the question.

Do I need a flap?

If there is a compelling reason I can make some vent boxes with flaps to go into the ceiling, however, I am thinking that just the register then some magnetic plastic sheet to cover the register in Winter would work just as well. All for under 20-bucks for two vents and covers.

I can spare the 2-minutes of my time twice a year to install/remove magnetic flaps.

Helpful thoughts?

Dave

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I made insert frames that fit snugly within the trim around my windows to seal them better. They have weatherstripping around the outside to adjust the snugness, and some have brass latches made from reshaped L hooks to resist wind pressure.

The winter frames are covered on both sides with clear polyester film that has held up very well since 1981. The summer frame for the air conditioner is glazed with bird-proof acrylic as well as the film and has doors on either side of the A/C to make installation easier. I open the window, lay in the custom shelf that takes the weight off the storm window frame, plop the A/C down on it, press in the frame, and then slide the A/C back and forth to let both doors close. Then I tape the gaps.

If you can make rigid corners in wood frames that's a good way to seal windows.

-jsw

Thanks, but the windows are the vertical hinge swing out type with a mechan ical position thing you wind in and out with a slider on a rail. Difficult to fill in the top and bottom "V" sections. Also the hinge point is about a n inch farther out than the frame so there is a long gap on the hinge side that gets bigger the farther open.

When we go out, we like to leaving the swamp running but not the windows op en so the ceiling vents solve that issue. With windows closed and swamp run ning things get damp.

Dave

You decide : my thought is that you need to consider the "net free area" of the vents. In order to not choke the cooler, it needs a certain area to vent through. The registers you linked to have considerably less free area than their 10 x 12 size and together they very probably have less than an open casement window.

How much does the cooler need and how much does each register have? If you can't get an official number for the cooler, the total area of the cooler delivery ducts would be good. Maybe Google could help you on the register n-f-a.

Bob

Here's what you need:

or this: Mount near the ceiling and tape thermal plastic over them during the winter.

4 of those might even bee too small. Check your CFM.

Only if you want to keep warm winter air -inside- the house.

Use louvered vents or get two (?) more of the register vents.

Oh, yeah. That's another thing. If you vent into the attic, you may get some moisture damage from the moist swamp cooler air. That's another reason to vent it directly outside. If you dare, ask a house inspector about your project concepts.

Two units ? wow what a ton of water.

What happens in winter ? - you seal the cooler so drafts can't come in. Why not do it like they are designed to be done ?

I used to use one in El Paso and another one in my Dad's station wagon. Driving on curves you might get a slosh on a leg! It was on the center hump.

Mart> We are looking at alternatives to leaving windows open for swamp > cooler exhaust.

Cheap option for the flaps is "coreflute" sheet with a simple wire hinge. They self activate when the air flows through.