Thread repair

Did any one used any of Stripped-Thread Repair Epoxy products?

I need to repair badly stripped threads in my Drill Press downfeed hub. Hub is the part where three feed handles are attached. Hub seems to be made of cast iron or some other very brittle steel that can't stand jerky movements of handles. Large pieces of thread teeth chipped out and handles are very loose.

What is best to use in this case Epoxy or metal threaded inserts? Metal inserts would be harder for me to do since I'll be using cordless drill to make holes in brittle metal (my drill press is obviously out of order)

BTW Hub is hollow inside so there is not much "meat" to hold on for inserts

Thanks

Reply to
Alex
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Best is to make a new one from tool steel. Second best is to get another one cast from aluminum, using yours as a mold, and machine that one.

After that the options are all bad. You can try carefully removing all of the threads, cleaning the bore meticulously, and epoxying in the handle (after roughing the mating surface). You may have some luck with helicoils but if as I suspect the part is made of pot metal, it likely won't hold.

You may be able to buy a replacement part, depending on your machine's manufacturer or distributor (i.e. Jet/Grizzly/Delta/Ridgid/DeWalt/Craftsman).

Good luck. You're going to need it.

GWE

Alex wrote:

Reply to
Grant Erwin

"Grant Erwin" wrote: (clip) Good luck. You're going to need it. (clip) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^ I agree. Those epoxy thread repairs are okay for very non-critical repairs. In your case, the threads are subject to repeated heavy bending, which is very likely to crush the epoxy filler over time, causing the handles to loosen again.

Reply to
Leo Lichtman

Agreed, but not tool steel. It's not necessary for the application, is expensive to buy, and can be difficult to machine. Plain old (low) carbon steel, or even medium carbon steel (1018 to 1045) would work just fine.

Assuming you end up going that direction, a little creativity in attaching the handles could go a long ways towards longevity. A larger diameter at the attachment point, for example. Allows for more threads, or a counterbored entry, so the shank is supported. The bad news is it requires the use of a metal lathe and at least a mill drill, so if you don't have them at your disposal, it might not hurt to look around to see if you don't have others in your community that have a like interest, and have some machine tools. Could be a six pack of beer or a dozen donuts could turn into an afternoon of fun and a new friendship. I do repairs like that for neighbors at no charge.

Harold

Reply to
Harold and Susan Vordos

I'd make a new hub out of aluminum barstock, or perhaps make a hex insert to fit your DP and loctite that into a stock mill vise spinner available for about $15 from Enco.

Might you be near Minneapolis?

Reply to
Don Foreman

So, unless it would interfere with mounting, _fill_ the hub with a stout, filled epoxy all the way out the holes. Then drill and re-tap. I've had very good luck with several of the concrete anchor adhesives. They're designed for slight (but minimal) expansion on cure, and are tough as a cob. The Simpson Strong-Tie system works quite well on metals.

LLoyd

LLoyd

Reply to
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh

Reply to
Alex

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" wrote: (clip)fill_ the hub with a stout, filled epoxy all the way out the holes. Then drill and re-tap. (clip) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ If you are able to drill and re-tap, why not just go to three locations halfway between the old holes?

Reply to
Leo Lichtman

Could be a cheap casting with no metal there.

Reply to
jtaylor

Try locktite 10 minute metal patch - it is rated to be equivalent in strength to a grade 5 bolt, and is about as fragile as cast. Put a coating of mold release on the bolt, goop it on and ram it home. Or use a light smudge of anti-seize. Or just slop the hole full, then redrill and re-tap.

Works either way.

Reply to
nospam.clare.nce

Do you know which mold release or anti-seize won't stick to metal epoxy?

snipped-for-privacy@sny.der.>

Reply to
Alex

I have some Bondo Body Filler. Is it as strong as "liquid metal" epoxy?

Reply to
Alex

Reply to
Don Young

No. Not in the slightest. Its miserable stuff with little strength of its own.

Gunner

Liberals - Cosmopolitan critics, men who are the friends of every country save their own. Benjamin Disraeli

Reply to
Gunner

CRC's "Heavy Duty Silicone Spray" forms an effective dry release for epoxies and polyester. Paraffin dissolved in xylene, toluene, or naptha works well, also.

LLoyd

Reply to
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh

Any antiseize I've ever tried has worked.

is the part

Reply to
nospam.clare.nce

Definitely not. It is basically polyester.

Reply to
nospam.clare.nce

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