UPDATE 3 with DETAILS of What Broke -- Replacing rear bearings on a Dodge pickup?

I discovered some fascinating things about where that broken piece comes from and why it fell off. It looks to me like it was improperly installed at the factory.

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I put pictures there of the exploded diagram of my 9.25" axle, and highlighted how it should be installed.

I then made VERY detailed pictures of what remained from the part that broke (adjuster ring lock), and how it LOOKS like it was installed backwards and broke, probably as I was driving home from the dealer on Day 1.

I want some opinions on this shit, specifically

- It is really wrong? Or am I confused?

- Is it covered by any sort of recall or advisory, given that my pickup is a 1999 pickup

- Did the problem with the LEFT adjuster lock, in fact, could possibly cause my problems with the RIGHT outer axle bearing?

- Just how f***ed I am here, can I possibly get by with just replacing the right outer axle bearing and perhaps changing the oil a couple of times and installing some rare earth magnet to collect metallic dust over the next month.

Your collective help has been INVALUABLE to me and I cannot say enough to express my extreme gratitude to all contributors so far.

THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU

i
Reply to
Ignoramus937
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I'd suggest taking a deep breath and holding it for while so you stop hyperventelating. There, OK now?

Looks like the retainer lock was installed backwards, just snapped off. This would give you the score mark on ring gear. Neither of those items really concerns me other than ranting about nincompoops at the factory. I would be concerned if the bearing retainer had moved. If it was loose, you will have trashed the bearings as well as gotten abnormal wear on the ring/pinion.

Since I doubt you have any warranty coverage, it's up to you. I'd clean up the whole assembly so you can see what it looks like without the oil residue. A good wear pattern is centered in the ring gear teeth. Lots more info in lots of places, try this for starters, keep looking.

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If the tooth wear looks ok, finish flushing the gear case, put in fresh oil, keep going. Perhaps drain and flush again in 30 to 60 days.

If the wear pattern shows that it has shifted over time or there is alot of backlash, time to call in an expert and have them rebuild it.

Shrug. What other choices do you have?

Ignoramus937 wrote:

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Reply to
RoyJ

OK. :)

OK, will read this.

Backlash would be, as I try to rock the main ring, a measure of how much it moves? Right?

I dunno, maybe there is a safety recall for this or something...

Adjusting these adusters, according to beekeep, is not terribly difficult. I will read some more.

The question is whether my carrier bearings are trashed.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus937

Somehow, I believe what you found is unrelated to your problem, though the lock should be replaced properly. It sounds to me more like a bad axle bearing. The carrier bearings work regardless of which wheel is turning.

Do not try to adjust or replace the carrier bearings or the pinion bearings unless you are real sure it is necessary and you have the tools and knowledge to do it properly.

Don Young

Reply to
Don Young

After reading all this, I'm in agreement with Don on this. Do the lock replacement, replace the axle bearing, I'd do both sides while it is apart. Then I'd probably run it for a 100 miles, drain it, look it over and if all is okay, refill the rear end and be done with it.

Roy

Reply to
Roy

Makes sense. Should I put in a small rare earth magnet somewhere on the bottom to collect loose steel grit?

i
Reply to
Ignoramus937

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Go to alldata.com and check the TSB Titles to see if there was a recall ot TSB that might be applicable. You have to pay to get the full bulletin, but the titles are generally descriptive and free. If you find one that sounds applicable you can check with the dealer for the full detail.

Pete C.

Reply to
Pete C.

If it would make feel better, go for it. Myself I wouldn't bother. I'd change the fluid more often maybe every 15K.

Roy

Reply to
Roy

I agree. But check the backlass. If it is close don't ajust anything. Change out the wheel bearings and seals and see what happens.

beekeep

Reply to
beekeep

Isn't there one attached to the cover?

beekeep

Reply to
beekeep

Ignoramus937 wrote in news:nkmRg.51174$ snipped-for-privacy@fe72.usenetserver.com:

Personally, I'd first check backlash, record it, then pull the carrier, flush and check the carrier bearings, based on the grit you found in the bottom of the can. It's not difficult to reset the lash / bearing pre-load on this type of set-up, same thing as a Ford 9" as far as that goes. Check your wear pattern on the ring gear and pinion. While you have the carrier out, check the pinion bearings for feel and any backlash. See how much wiggle you have (if any) in the spiders and make sure the pins are still corretly in place. Pull the axles, replace both bearings. While you have it all apart, clean the inside of the housing really good, including the tubes. You want to get all of that grit out of there that you can before you re- install anything. All that grit sloshing around is probably what got your axle bearing(s). If one has failed, the other is not far behind, which is also why I suspect the carrier bearings are going to be damaged, and probably the pinion bearings also. If the lock has broken off, the possibility that the preload was lost early on is relatively high, which is not a good thing. Definately check for the TSB's. I would just replace all the bearings and seals while I had it apart (pinion included).

Reply to
Anthony

On Sun, 24 Sep 2006 00:40:46 -0400, with neither quill nor qualm, "Roy" quickly quoth:

Ig: Unless the bolts were loose and you ran it with the adjuster floating around (backlash city) for years, probably not. Odds are good that the bolts are still tight and the only problem you really had was the bad axle bearing. (I'm jumping in here late, so if you previously said something which disputes that I'll understand. I'm going by what I've read in a few posts this morning.)

Ig: I agree with Roy, but not on replacing both bearings. It's usually just one which goes bad. Also, your idea of putting a magnet in tne bottom is a good one. I doubt there's much metal from that broken tab, but it will catch any slivers from long-term gear wear.

LJ--ex-Wrench.

Reply to
Larry Jaques

Larry Jaques wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

Larry, Ig stated in a previous post that there was a bunch of 100 grit particles in the bottom of the carrier housing. This is what makes me concerned about the condition of all the bearings. That's some pretty good sized particles to be floating around in the oil and bearings. In addition, that is rather large particle size for normal gear wear residue, from my experience. My thoughts are when he inspects the failed bearing, he is going to see contaminent damage rather than normal wear brinelling.

Reply to
Anthony

If you replace the pinion bearings you will need a in/ounce torque wrench to set the preload.

beekeep

Reply to
beekeep

Imo there is a bit of over reaction going on. The truck has 70K+ on it. It is not unheard of for a axle bearing to go south at that mileage. Sure the lock has to be replaced, but there didn't seem to be a glaring problem with the wear on the ring&pinion that I saw. Some of these posts have the op about rebuilding the rear end. Sorta like tearing down a engine for a broken rocker arm. Then again it is not my truck. If it were I'd do a good visible, replace the lock, flush it, do both axle bearings, fill it, run it, drain it, take another good look at it, if okay, refill and be done with it. Of course that's me, I'm not overly anal about this stuff. I'm aware that others are, that's cool.

Roy

Reply to
Roy

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I really think you're going to be a lot better off to take it to a shop that knows what they are doing, setting up a rear isn't something you want to learn by guessing and "trying".

BDK

Reply to
BDK

What Roy said. Flush it well, replace the lock tab, replace the axle bearing, drive on. Don;t make a big deal out of it.

In any case, if the noise continues, I would NOT reccomend a DIY repair. So bolt it back together takes 15 minutes to flush well, 15 minutes to bolt the cover on, if it isn't right you lost 30 minutes.

the OTHER Roy

Roy wrote:

Reply to
RoyJ

Looking at pictures of gear faces and description of large metal particles, I am of the mind that since he has the thing torn a part now, he would best be served by replacing all the bearings now since they are likely damaged. He will have to set back lash, buy a new crush sleeve if this type of diff uses it on pinion, yada yada.

Put the magnet in, pull cover and change the oil a few times as gears polish up and see if it is fixed.

This is from the perspective of someone that thinks any modern vehicle should be able to hit 250,000+ with decent maintenance. His truck is still relatively new at 70K.

Wes S

Reply to
clutch

On Sun, 24 Sep 2006 14:56:23 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, Anthony quickly quoth:

That's bad, but did he see them in the oil itself, or just the case? They might be too heavy to move around much. If he can see that they're relegated to only one side, the bad axle bearing side, he may be OK, though. A full cleanout is in order, though.

Pop the cover back on/axle back in, R&R the diff, steam clean the sumbish, pop the full nut, take a peep, check the wear patterns, and go from there.

Yeah, I'm curious.

Reply to
Larry Jaques

Probably not, but it can't hurt to ask.

Here's how the dealer will look at it: If you've been a _good_ customer of the local dealer, the service department might go to bat for you with the regional rep. If you did all the routine service yourself (or anyplace other than the dealer), this is where you get spend all the money you saved.

Sorry, but that's how the game is played.

-Carl

Reply to
Carl Byrns

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