What is the weight of a Lincoln SA200

I betcha it is varnished in place.

I suppose one could place the fuel bowl assembly in a parts cleaner basket and give it an overnight bath. Perhaps the solvent would loosen the gunk enough.

Prepare to make a replacement seal, in any event.

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--Winston

Reply to
Winston
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One helluva cart, I imagine.

It is probably lacquer-glued to the cork gasket. Got a tiny rubber mallet or rubberized hammer handle? Give it a little sideways whack, making sure to support whatever metal it's glued to.

Are you going to remove the tank and flush it, or has it never been allowed to lacquer up? My old SA-300 that I sold had a replacement stainless tank which had been sitting so long, it needed flushing. But since the engine was frozen solid, I decided to let a future owner handle it.

Typical.

I usually just pour half an ounce down the carb throat to see if it'll start.

Woke 'em up and quickly sneaked inside, eh? BTDT.

Wow, long trip! Say "Hi!" to my mom if you pass through Vallejo, will you?

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Oh, you meant NAPA, didn't you? They probably have an auto parts store near you.

-- Make the best use of what is in your power, and take the rest as it happens. -- Epictetus

Reply to
Larry Jaques

Unscrew the little nut on the bottom, move the bail over to the side, and tap the glass on the side to break the gluing.

-- Make the best use of what is in your power, and take the rest as it happens. -- Epictetus

Reply to
Larry Jaques

Nothing special, just a wood cart from McMaster-Carr.

Yep, that is a great idea.

I do not know yet, I will try to get the engine to run and then I will see..

Assuming that 10 gallons of fuel dries out in the tank, what is the best way to disslove all that crud?

Which it seems to do. I will try to run it today.

HAHA

i
Reply to
Ignoramus8104

"Just a wood cart" supports a 1,300 pound object and allows you to move it around?

I don't have any experience with that. We'd replace the tank at the body shop. From what I've read over the years, there are solutions you can put in the tank to dissolve crud, then they're flushed and steamcleaned, then dried and a sealant is poured in. Once it cures, the tank is good for another 100 years.

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One method, not the cheapest.

It's literally impossible to do any work at night and not rile the neighbors...unless you're on 50,000-acre lots in very rural areas.

-- Make the best use of what is in your power, and take the rest as it happens. -- Epictetus

Reply to
Larry Jaques

-----snip----

Try putting it in a lacquer thinner or acetone bath, and using some sort of vibration (one of those powered toothbrush thingamajigs) to clean it.

I've put old gummed up parts in a lacquer thinner bath in a rubber-lined coffee can and secured them to a jitter-bug type vibratory sander clamped to my workbench. It's a home-made version of an ultrasonic jewelery cleaner, basically. Works like a charm, in much less time than simply soaking them.

Reply to
Tin Lizzie DL

"Tin Lizzie DL" wrote

When I disassembled mine, the glass bowl was frozen to the 50's technology cork/rubber gasket, and the threaded rod and nut tightening assembly, and the whole thing was pretty much one corroded piece. I took it off completely, and inserted TWO inline replacable gas filters, one for forward flow, and one for any back flow, and for northern/southern hemisphere applications. ;-) I could see that the gasket seal was a site for future problems, and the elimination of it was easy and cheap. I did not price a replacement, but imagine it would have been more than the Joe McGee solution I put in place.

I also noted that the gas intake port is on the front corner of the machine, so when parking it, it is easy to have it suck air when it gets low on gas, and if you either block it, or use the tongue jack to lower the front of the machine by just one degree, it will run entirely dry. Particularly if you have a high bumper truck. I just eyeball it, or put a small magnetic level on it. It ain't much gas of a difference, but it just might get you through that last weld.

Steve

Heart surgery pending?

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Reply to
Steve B

My SA 200 is an obnoxiously loud straight pipe with a rain flap. I want to put a muffler on there. Would any old cheap-o muffler do it, or is there a special one that has the right backpressure? How about the little 12-15 incher or so muffler? I'm sure I'm going to have to build a support bracket, too, and think I'll point it horizontal to keep height down, and not have it pointed up into the rain, although it does have a rain flap. Or maybe 45 it to point the gases and noise up just a little.

Anyone done this? Pointers?

Steve

Heart surgery pending?

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Reply to
Steve B

I do not know what the FUCK I was typing!!! It was very late and I was very tired from unloading and messing with that SA-200 welder..

I meant, a wood cart with casters from Harbor Freight.

maybe one day!

i
Reply to
Ignoramus8104

Farm supply stores should have a suitable muffler.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus8104

Back pressure is not an issue with the Continental. Iggy suggested a tractor muffler they are probably the easiest to install

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You can also use a car muffler. Just stop at your local auto parts place, ask them for a short body muffler that has been sitting there way too long, adapt it as needed. The car muffler will be quieter than the tractor muffler.

For any of these solutions, the biggest thing is to get the input size to fit your pipe. You certainly can make an adapter but why not get the right muffler to start? Lots of choices, not much difference in cost.

Try to install the muffler horizontal and add an output pipe aimed down to avoid the need for a rain cap. If it's gotta go up, absolutely put a rain cap on it. In dry climates, make sure the exhaust isn't aimed at potential fire hazards like dry grass.

You might f> My SA 200 is an obnoxiously loud straight pipe with a rain flap. I want to

Reply to
RoyJ

I second and third the suggestion to aim exhaust at least slightly downward.

Rain caps are unreliable and damage can be massive.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus8104

Ignoramus8104 wrote in rec.crafts.metalworking on Sat, 26 Mar 2011 09:38:52 -0500:

SEA FOAM. Should be available at most auto parts stores.

Reply to
dan

The 'inside the case'/'under the hood' mufflers are a clean (elegant?) installation and add no external hardware that needs mounts and or supports and could limit clearance when moving. They do make the exhaust quieter, they do not make it quiet, and they are not enough to make your neighbours happy unless they are a VERY long way away. There is something about the cycling of engine speed and load that seems to draw attention. Constant but louder noise may be less noticeable / objectionable.

IMHO an inside the case muffler should be fitted to all welders as basic / permanent equipment. When working where noise may be a problem, I just remove the rain hat and place any large old muffler on top of the stack. This will really reduce the noise, just remember to remove before moving the machine.

There are external / outside the case mufflers ($) and mounting kits (more$) used on diesel driven units but I am sure you could fab something that will work just as well for a lot less money.

Good luck, just my .02

Reply to
Private

If you want it REALLY quiet and don't mind spending some money (I know, this is RCM where nobody wants to spend any money) these SuperTrapp Quiet Mufflers are really remarkable.

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I have one on my Miller Bobcat and I bought one for my 4x4 Coot amphibian. They are (relatively) compact and lightweight, but incredibly quiet. You just add one "disk" diffuser for each 7hp of engine output up to about 100hp.

Reply to
David Courtney

$60 to quiet engine noise is absolutely worth it...if they work. $146 might not be. Ouch!

-- If the only prayer you ever say in your whole life is "thank you," that would suffice. -- Meister Eckhart

Reply to
Larry Jaques

Anyone know the hp of a Continental F 163?

Steve

Heart surgery pending?

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Reply to
Steve B

(...)

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This guy thinks it's 54 HP at 2800 RPM.

--Winston

Reply to
Winston

Reply to
Winston

Good running one should be around 60HP

Most of the units around here are running a simple farm tractor muffler usually off of something like a Farmall H or M

Reply to
Steve W.

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