When you are lucky, you can look at other features and determine a bolt pattern, spacing from another hole, measure the mating item, ect.
May designers that use dimensions like 1.37 burn in hell.
Wes
-- "Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller
The old liquid wrench did work well! I used to use it in the 60s on my old English cars, and my collection of vintage vehicles. When they changed the formula it was no where near as good.
Steve R.
A semi flat surface is key. Using a ball type carb burr will get down inside to take away the jagged broken off bolt end. After lightly punching, use a stubby center drill to start a point. Just like center punching, you can "walk" it around till it looks good. A lot of imagination is required as stated because the thread runs out on one side making the center visually look shifted.
attern, spacing
Yep, but is it inch 3/8 or metric 10mm"? - 1/4" or 6mm? 5/16or 8mm?
1/2"or 12mm? Thats my biggest problem. Even comparing the pitch/dia. is a painstaking task since most bolts, when measured, are slightly under from their nominal. Some metric sizes have 3or4 pitchs! in each size, not even listed on most drill/tap charts. Dont even want to think about British Witworth - I feel sorry for you MG owners.they are too lazy/forget to change their decimal place setting on the CAD? Unless configured, most CAD systems default are 2plc- like metric, or thinking 2place dec. will make it easier for the machinist - according to the 2plc tolerance print spec. IE: center punch & drill press?
Still gotta get that portable EDM attachment invented
I buy PB Blaster at Walmart in Port Huron, MI $3.79/spray can. Gerry :-)} London, Canada
I am way late in this thread but I thought this was an interesting forum post re: release agents:
On Sat, 26 Dec 2009 22:59:08 -0800, the infamous "Michael Koblic" scrawled the following:
Try Ed's Red, Mikey. It's that and more.
-- "I believe that sex is one of the most beautiful, natural, wholesome things that money can buy." --Tom Clancy
A friend of mine is a pilot for the airlines and he tells me "The aircraft mechanics have some stuff they call "Mouse milk" that they swear by, but despite requests from me they have never gave me any, so I don't know what it is." I DAGS and the first hit was
Last problem I had was removing a tapered round barrel from a 50-year- old Marlin 39. Nothing worked, so was going to use Kroil. None to be found in the house, I knew I had gotten some, though. So mixed up acetone/ATF 50/50 and soaked the thing for 4 days or so, wasn't in a hurry. Put the barrel vise back on, put it in the 20 ton press to hold it, put the receiver vise on it with the filler and pads and smacked it with the deadblow, came right off. Was 50 years worth of .
22 gunk in the square threads. Found the can of Kroil a couple of days later.My usual stuff is LPS 1, but it's getting pretty steep, last can I bought was $12. I first used it on some rusty bumper bolts, the truck had come from Wisconsin and had been in the salty slop there for several years. I could chin myself on my breaker bar, even with a cheater pipe. Shot the nuts and washers with LPS 1 and let it sit overnight. It had spread into a ring on the other side of the bumper about 4" in diameter. After that, the nuts came off like they were new, just used the regular ratchet wrench. Has been my first choice of penetrant since. Was out of it for the job above, though.
Usually a touch of a propane torch followed by a rap with a hammer and a shot of LPS 1 gets things moving, repeated if needed.
Stan
It works.
No one has mentioned my favorite for capscrews with twisted off heads. If the stub is at all proud of the surfcae, set a new grade 8 nut over it, start on the threads if any. Then MIG, TIG or braze the inside of that nut onto the stubb. Presumably you have applied penetrant before reaching this point. Let it cool (or wait a bit then hit it with some ice or refrigerant spray). Remove with hand tools on the nut.
Good. If its actually a problem of the bolt head getting rounded off by a bad socket or wrench, they work great.
If the bolt is seized and the head got rounded off fighting with it, these extractor sockets will just allow you to get a good grip on the bolt head so you can snap it off. Methods for freeing the stuck threads must still be employed to prevent this.
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