Removing my drilling chuck

You might be being too gentle with the rubber mallet or the wood pad. Try taking the drawbar out and putting a bit of rod down the shaft then hit the rod with the steel hammer to give it a sharp shock.

Sometimes just dropping a piece of 1/2" rod down the shaft can loosen the taper without the need for a hammer.

Jim.

good idea :) Hopefully I have some steel rod round somewhere,

aluminium but thats a bit soft. Well cheers, hopefully It is jus really tight or im being a wuss :

-- milg

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Use brass rod if you have it, as anything hard will likely splay the end of the draw bar.

Joules

In message , Stephen Howard writes

And very easy to make - (well easy in the sense of simple, the filing is a bit tedious). It is basically a 'square U' shape. The ends of the arms of the U are the "thin edge(s) of the wedge".

Well thanks for all the information. I might get some of that freezin

stuff, should come in handy. I managed just to get it out with brut force earlier, I put a metal rod down the shaft and hit it with a bi hammer until it eventually came out :) Part of the problem was that thought i might break it somehow. A wedge sounds good, I will have bash at making one of those. Thanks again :

-- milg

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Try cleaning out the taper socket. Sounds as if something might have got in there during manufacture or packing causing the tapers to stick in.

Jim.

So does it work by pushing it in sideways? Or downwards? Its just sor

of like putting a spanner in there and using it as a lever

-- milg

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Well it's not like me to be advising restraint :-)), but have you looked at the picture of the mill Dave? If you hit that with a lump hammer, it might prove a trifle expensive!! ( Its a very small bench top mill, not a gert big ton or so of CI)

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- snipped-for-privacy@boltblue.com John Lloyd - Cymru/Wales

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Another point is that you don't necessarily need a 'big' hammer. a 1lb hammer should be enough for most purposes. Just get it moving fast enough to deliver a real shock to the draw bar and thence to the chuck.

Mark Rand RTFM

By the same token, you could always hit it gently with a large hammer, rather than hitting it hard with a small hammer - I find that method is more controlable (for me at least - others will disagree)

Cheers Mark

yeah thats why I was a bit worried john. Its a sturdy little thing, bu

its not exactly a bridgeport. Anyway, now i managed to remove the chuc I have a milling chuck and more cutters on order :

-- milg

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Effective, but not so good for the spindle bearings! If you're going to do this at least wedge the spindle up with a metal bar between table and bottom of spindle. The shock is then transmitted to the table rather than the bearing.

ChrisH

I see. Just to clarify the manual says to use a plastic/rubber mallet.

wasn't hitting it with wood, I was hitting it with a hammer, using th wood to absord a bit of the shock not standing there with a big plan smacking the thing :

-- milg

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Two overlapping wedges, one on each side of the chuck, and two hammers used one in each hand, and there is relatively no adverse load on anything ! Put something soft to catch the falling chuck !!

Mike

Apologies if the answer to this question lies elsewhere, but does anyone know where I can buy a pair of these wedgy thingies (or even what the correct name for them is.... :confused: ) for seperating things like chucks from JT wedges?

I've tried making them before but they always become seriously 'galled' and only usable once or twice.

I s'pose that they need to be case hardened really but, despite having a large tin of 'Casenit', I have no real facilities for heat treatment.

Tried all the usual googling for wedges, tapers, "chuck seperators", etc. - I can't find 'em anywhere, yet I'm sure that I saw an ad for them somewhere on-line, quite recently.

Thanks, in anticipation.......

Barry

struggling with an obstinate Jacobs taper.......

.........in darkest Basildon

Guy Wrote:

Arc Euro

Pat

Jacabs wedge sets PN: JDC-13266H, 67C, 68M, and 69J.

Chuck P.

I had a similar problem with a mill of unknown history. The lack of a drawbar should have made me suspicious. A previous owner had used Loctite or super glue to hold the chuck in. It took one hell of a lot of heat to break the bond!