The cost of parting insert holders

Quicker and simpler is two put two nuts on, assuming the length allows, and
lock them together using two spanners.

Steve

Sadly not Steve, there is a hole in your method. When locked together tight
enough the hex flats of the nuts will not align, then when held in the chuck
as you tighten it the hexs move into alignment slackening the stud! It would
work if one nut could be out of the chuck jaws but I couldn't do that. Silly
as I keep a box of various nuts with axial saw cuts in them just for this
purpose.

AWEM

Actually Andrew, I believe that you will find that if you choose the
correct pairs of flats the chuck jaws will tend to separate the apexes
and thus to tighten rather than loosen the joint.   Ne'er a failure in
sixty years - but it could happen tomorrow.  :)

Mike

--
Mike Whittome

Well, it could, but let's be honest, it's not going to, the hole is not
there. What you said about the tightening is correct. I've used this method
for many years to cut bolts or studs with a hacksaw or angle grinder. I've
only recently acquired a lathe, so I've been out to play this morning and
done this with a couple of M12s. Works a treat. I also (re)discovered that
the start of the thread isn't always in the same place relative to the
flats, so they may line up if you change one of the nuts.

Steve

On 05/03/2012 10:05, Andrew Mawson wrote:

I bought a box of 151.2-200 inserts for a good price and was dismayed to
find that although they looked like 151.2-250 inserts in the photo, they
were actually rather smaller and wouldn't fit the holder.
I too was horrified at the price of a Sandvik holder so I made my own
from a bit of gauge plate. After hardening and tempering it works fine,
and cost less than a pound.

--
Regards, Gary Wooding
(To reply by email, change gug to goog in my address)

I too was considering such a move. The profile looking sideways would be a
doddle on my wire eroder, however the mouth where the insert pushes is
profiled as well in the other axis - I suppose a touch with a diamond file
would do it though.

AWEM

On 05/03/2012 14:21, lemel_man wrote:

I made my own too. I did not harden and temper but it has served me well
for a couple of years. Parting off Aluminium bar at 1000 rpm is magic!

--
--
Richard

On 05/03/2012 10:05, Andrew Mawson wrote:

http://www.ctctools.biz/servlet/the-698/SPB-PARTING-fdsh-CUT-dsh-OFF-BLADE-FOR/Detail

Its a Hong Kong co, but I've used them a lot and it's always pretty good
stuff even for my commercial use.

Wayne

"Wayne Weedon"  wrote in message

Interesting Wayne - I've always fought shy of changing brands as nobody ever
says if their product is compatible with the oppositions inserts. Do you
happen to know if the CTC holders are compatible with the Sandvik parting
inserts?

AWEM

On Mon, 5 Mar 2012 10:05:46 -0000, "Andrew Mawson"


I keep an eye on EBay.


Mark Rand
RTFM