SWMBO queried why so many of my T-shirts have a plague of holes only down the left side?
It's that bloody Rocol spewing off whatever is held in the chuck!
Looking up Rocol on Google suggests that it is the most insidious of chemicals.
SWMBO queried why so many of my T-shirts have a plague of holes only down the left side?
It's that bloody Rocol spewing off whatever is held in the chuck!
Looking up Rocol on Google suggests that it is the most insidious of chemicals.
I just have and the ones I saw say "No significant hazard". What are you using? What am I missing? Is SWMBO angling for a new washing machine?
That is, indeed, a good question. Some months ago I was suffering from headaches after using the stuff, and when I googled about it, found much information about its ill-health effects; inhaling the vapours, eczema, poisonous if ingested (eg licking one's finger after a cut)
Now, today, following your query, cannot locate that same info.
I don't doubt your symptoms. It's best to avoid long term inhalation of such materials.
I was more interested how it could make holes in your clothes?
I've not had trouble with RTD Cleancut, which would be the Rocol I'd assume he'd be using here. As I recall, it is mildly alkali (pH > 7) but not enough to be an issue. I'm pretty sure it also mixes with water based lubs so dilutes further.
Perhaps something else is going on? Contamination?
I don't do much machining these days but the above is certainly my recollection.
The OP wasn't machining something 'unusual' which perhaps (still) overheated.
The advantages of having a Chemist at hand to consult: Any PVC,Teflon, or other fluorinated/chlorinated plastics being machined (and thus heated)? All produce 'nasty' compounds you don't want to be breathing. Even PVC will produce HCl. I think I have summarised that correctly.
Teflon has to get rather 'hot' to break down (not much good for pans other wise) but PVC (and perhaps other plastics in the family?) will breakdown at more modest tempratures.
IIRC, hot teflon releases HF (hydrogen fluoride). HF is bad news, and small amounts inhaled (or absorbed by the skin) are often fatal.
(I used to work with 30%, 60% and 90% hydrofluoric acid, so I'm reasonably genned-up on how to avoid it like the plague.
Hydrofluoric Acid is, I believe, capable of 'attacking' glass and, as you say, nasty stuff.
It is used to etch glass.
If any penetrates tissue as far as bone, it might still require an amputation. If it gets a hold (i.e. not washed off *immediately*) and a red patch appears, the area must be (well, always used to be) raised on a subcutaneous bubble of sodium glutamo glutamate.
I've had *that* treatment twice.
Indeed. While it's not quite in my "things I won't work with" list[#], it's close.
[#]Calcium glutamate is the traditional one.
Nowadays for very bad but localised burns sometimes calcium chloride isolated perfusion is used, where eg the hand is separated from the body's blood circulation with a tourniquet and calcium chloride solution is pumped through the arteries and veins.
Ouch.
I haven't commented in this thread so far, as I don't know what type of Rocol the OP was referring to - googling, I found several hundred possibilities.
-- Peter Fairbrother
Absolutely brilliant website; anyone with any interest in chemistry should read. I nearly wet myself laughing.
Calcium gluconate, I think you mean.
David
Not being able to re-locate the original caveats that I encountered, I came across this today ...
BUT BUT BUT, on second thoughts, perhaps it wasn't the ROCOL, as that is applied sparingly (although it does bring on an incurable headache), but the diesel-engine lubricating oil with which I lubricate the jaws of the chucks. (as seen this morning, a small pool of oil underneath the chuck; unfortunately (!) having got some work at the age of 62, I've not been machining for the past 5 weeks, hence the chucks have remained stationary.
There's absolutely nothing in there to corrode your clothing. You haven't confirmed yet which Rocol product you are accusing.
Cliff Coggin.
Paraffin
Rubbish! Paraffin is not corrosive.
Cliff.
In article , Cliff Coggin writes
No, but it is a solvent, and could conceivably attack some synthetic materials. Unlikely, but possible.
David
Ouch! That doesn't appeal one bit.
I've a current "domestic request" for assist with drilling glass plates- a job I'm viewing with some dread.
I was thinking of 'etching' as a remote option but can't think how to control the size, beyond the initial contact area.
I suspect I will be back to drilling. A 'putty dam', oil / paraffin, and a slow 'glass drill' in the pillar drill. Only 3 plates to drill but I think it will seem like many more. I don't recall drilling glass in the past- other that the 'glaze' on tiles.
The glass is of unknown type- beyond it is used to make plates.
Tips welcome.
Buy a diamond hole saw, readily available cheaply in many sizes off ebay. This sort of thing
When you say plates do you mean like dinner plates? if so they may be Pyrex and I think OK to drill if of European manufacture as not toughened. US made Pyrex products don't use a borosilicate glass and are toughened so drilling is out unless you want lots of little pieces.
Thank you.
They are dinner type plates but not Pyrex type. They are much more 'pretty' the sort of thing you would look at not eat off.
Are these possibly hand blown glass plates?
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