Just had a wild thought: has anyone successfully used cordless power tool motors for robot drive trains ? Such as cordless circular saw ? Pros (cheap; off the shelf; ) ? Cons ? ( high current draw ? gear casing in body itself ? )
At $50 each for a brand new one, the price seems right. But I am sure there are other considerations required to make it work in actuallity.
Ditto. I tried taking one apart, and the whole thing is designed to be hacker-proof. (This was a Ryobi, I think.) Not only is the case really hard to open, but the clutch and chuck all seemed to be inseparable. I did manage to pull out the planetary gears, but thats not really useful for anything, just kind of fun to look at.
They work great. I have a 4WD, 4 motor test vehichle using screwdriver motors. They ony cost $AU 9.00 which is probably $US 6.00. These have no chucks to remove. Here in Aus we have some robowars events where you can only use 12V drill motors and mechanical speed controllers to keep costs down. The website is
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I thought they had an article on removing chucks and mounting wheels but I could't find it. Didn't look to hard though.
Yeah they are the ones from Dickies. I tried the ones from Reject shop/Clints but they cost $2.00 more, they did have metal output were the dickies is plastic but I don't think it makes much difference.
It was a little tricky to mount the motors and wheels. In fact my wheels are a little off square.
At the moment my vehicle doesn't have a brain. I just drive it on RC to check different designs. It is in peices at the moment, adding rear suspension.
I have used electric screwdrivers for robot motors, but not for the main drive train. However, they certainly have the power and the life span for such a thing.
Cheers!
Sir Charles W. Shults III, K. B. B. Xenotech Research
The cheaper ones tend to be more difficult to hack.
Where the more expensive ones have proper bearings, fasteners and metal gears, the cheap stuff tends to come with NO bearings, plastic gears and riveted fasteners.
Most of the chuck assemblies I have seen have a left hand threaded screw inside the chuck that helps secure the chuck to the shaft. You need to remove this screw first before you can unscrew the chuck from the shaft.
I've done a bit of work with some of these and generally pulled them from a Black & Decker cordless drills.
In one case I made several changes to the gearbox:
- replaced the shaft with a custom made piece that was better adapted to the sprocket I was using.
- reinforced the plastic housing with epoxy.
- turned the housing on a lathe to get it a bit more concentric.
The motors are mostly Johnsons' and they seem to easily tolerate overvoltage of 50% or more.
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