melt ABS pellets on kitchen stove ?

    --Not sure about this stuff, but it's safer to use a double boiler
with some of the lower temperature plastics, so you don't risk starting a
fire..

--
        "Steamboat Ed" Haas         :  I still miss          
        Hacking the Trailing Edge!  :  rock and roll...
                          www.nmpproducts.com
                   ---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---

I thought about this but ABS has a melting point of right about 212F.
The inside of the double-boiler would never exceed that temperature, and
would probably be less. So, the material would be in a loose plastic
state, but probably not flow.

ABS is an extraordinarily smelly plastic when melting and burning, and
it's never a good idea to melt any plastics in the kitchen except the
ones specically for craft applications because the gasses can get into
open food containers, etc.

-- Gordon

Phew! Thanks for the warning about the gases. Good to know!
JCD

That's good info on the double boiler.

Of course I found out more on the net after posting this. I'm thinking =
that using a solvent is the way to go with stuff. Acetone maybe. And =
from Gordon's post, definitely do it outside! As I discover more I will =
post if here for others to benefit from.

Thanks !
JCD

that could be melted on a kitchen stove and poured into a mold ? Any comments on
this sort of thing are welcome!

Have you seen Polymorph aka Shapelock?

As described on http://www.xrobots.co.uk/  "This is a plastic which melts
at around 60 degrees C / 140 degrees F so that you can melt it in hot
water and mash it about with your hands. It sets again when it cools and
is probably as tough as nylon."

regards,
Colin

--

www.minisumo.org.uk

(Remove the "No Spam" to reply by email!)

? Any comments on this sort of thing are welcome!

Good suggestion but I have already tried their sample a while back. I =
need something that will flow into a mold and this stuff - as far as I =
can tell - needs to be mashed around with your fingers, as you =
mentioned.

Good suggestion, though !
Thanks !

something that will flow into a mold and this stuff - as far as I can tell -
needs to be mashed around with your fingers, as you mentioned.

can you inject your mold with a large syringe?

regards,
colin

--

www.minisumo.org.uk

(Remove the "No Spam" to reply by email!)

can tell - needs to be mashed around with your fingers, as you =
mentioned.

Yeah I could do that. You thinking about using the Shapelok stuff in a =
syringe ? I don't know ... seems very viscous for that. Maybe one of =
those big metal ones like used in zoos and stuff ?

    --Plan B: there used to be a couple of companies that manufactured
small injection molding machines. IIRC one could be chucked in a drillpress;
very simple design. The two companies that spring to mind are Minijector and
Simplomatic. Time marches on and Minijector's smallest unit is this one:
http://www.minijector.com/model45.php
    --Simplomatic had quite an array of machines but they're very
brick-and-mortar: they don't have a page up yet...
--
        "Steamboat Ed" Haas         :  I still miss          
        Hacking the Trailing Edge!  :  rock and roll...
                          www.nmpproducts.com
                   ---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---

Plan C: Used fused deposition modelling; one of the plastics that can be
exploited is ABS. Just a few weeks ago this topic came up, and Dean
Schrickel provided a very interesting Web site for a home-made machine
in the $400 range: reprap.org. FDM is cheaper than injection molding,
easier (no need to construct molds), and safer. The RepRap uses
polycaprolactone (polymorph), which has a lower melting point than ABS,
and would be the material of choice for a low-end machine. Melting ABS
can cause very serious third-degree burns, and I personally wouldn't
handle it without some good training.

There's also this Wiki page folks should look at:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RepRap

As a point of reference, the white plastic polycaprolactone connectors
used to construct the RepRap frame are themselves "printed" using FDM.
The metal rods, stepper motors, and other metal parts are purchased; the
page includes construction details and parts list.

-- Gordon

Cool! Didn't know such an item even existed!
Thanks - JCD

On Sat, 2 Jun 2007 15:03:35 -0400, the renowned "Pogo"


that could be melted on a kitchen stove and poured into a mold ? Any comments on
this sort of thing are welcome!

ABS is an amorphous plastic. What this means to you is that it won't
ever get very liquid-- it doesn't really have a melting point-- so a
lot of pressure is required to get it to conform to a mold.  


Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
--
"it's the network..."                          "The Journey is the reward"
speff@interlog.com             Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog  Info for designers:  http://www.speff.com

Dear Pogo,

Recently I started using a two part casting plastic
called InstaCast. The supplier is Douglas and Sturgess.
Product is CR-1014W. I got it in SF but you can order
online at www.artstuf.com

It pours like a heavy cream, picks up fine detail, and you
can add stuff like glass fiber to it to change it's chars.
I think it would be easier and less smelly than boiling
ABS.

Brad Smallridge
AiVision

Man those are good prices on that stuff ! Thanks for the tip!
JCD

On Sat, 2 Jun 2007 15:03:35 -0400, "Pogo"


You don't say what the intended use is, but you can probably melt
hot glue sticks on the stove top. You might need a double boiler
with cooking oil in it instead of water to get the higher
temperatures.