Need help with IR Detector

These are quite standard 3-pin IR detectors. Most only differ on how the
pins are connected. If you lay your IR detector down with the flat side on
the table, the lens towards you and the pins down, then pin 1 is to the
left. Connections are: pin 1 : output;  pin 2 : GND; pin 3 : Vcc

Hooking up is quite straight forward: Vcc is connected to 5V, GND connected
to 0V and output is typicaly connected to a microcontroller. If you don't
have a microcontroller handy, you could hook up a led to see the output.
Connect one side of a 330ohm resistor to 5V and the other to the led (at its
anode, this is the longest wire on the led). The other pin (kathode) of the
led is hooked up to output.

-Patrik

Thanks for the reply, they was very clear. But I still seem to have to
messed it up some how. When I turned it on nothing happened except that
the back got hot. If you know what might have happened please reply.
-Kit

I can't find a decent datasheet on this IR detector. I think the problem is
either that it wasn't connected correctly
(http://www.rentron.com/images/Ir-6.gif  does confirm the IR detectors pin
out) or its internal transistor can't sink much current (The datasheet
doesn't mention the limit) .
In that case you'll need to add a transistor as a buffer. Here 's a quick
schematic: http://users.pandora.be/redx/files/BUFFER.PCX   None of the
components are critical. You can use pretty much any standard transistor,
Resistor values don't have to be exact.

-Patrik

The Image is very clear so I understand what pins are what but, the
circuit diagram docent say what transistor or resistor to use. So I am
ether using the wrong program or it docent say. Could you please tell
me, a. what program to use to view these files and b. what transistor
and resistor to use.
thanks
-Kit

Paint used to support PCX, seems it doesn't anymore. Here's the same picture
in JPG: http://users.pandora.be/redx/files/buffer.JPG

-Patrik

I think I must have zapped the detector, when it got hot  so  I am
going to get another one and try that.

Thanks for all the help,
-Kit

Before you connect power again, you need to decide what you are going
to do with the device.  If you want to use it so that you can receive
IR TV remote commands, then you'll have to do some reading on how to
do that - It depends upon the microcontroller that you have, Stamps,
PIC, AVR, BasicX, Atom, etc.  You need to get the data sheet so that
you know how to connect it.  The easiest way to get this data sheet
is to go to http://www.digikey.com , search for "PNA4602", then select
Technical/Catalog Information link and click on the datasheet.

  This is a garden variety 38KHz IR demodulator, perfect for using with
TV remotes and the like.

have fun,
DLC

: I think I must have zapped the detector, when it got hot  so  I am
: going to get another one and try that.

: Thanks for all the help,
: -Kit


--
============================================================================
* Dennis Clark         dlc@frii.com                www.techtoystoday.com   *
* "Programming and Customizing the OOPic Microcontroller" Mcgraw-Hill 2003 *    
============================================================================

kitmor wrote:

As Dennis indicated, get the datasheet first. If the part got hot, then
you probably had the power hooked up wrong, which should have been 5v
dc - and not a 9v battery, etc.

Also, to get it to work you will need a 5-10K pullup resistor to +5v on
the output pin. To see any output at all, you will need an oscilloscpe
or else an Led, wired to +5v through a 1K resistor or so. If you use
the Led circuit, you will not need the other pullup. In addition, you
need a source of 38 Khz infrared light to stimulate the part. Where do
you get one that will work? My TV remote stimulates the PNA4602 just
fine, but other remotes might not.

So, you see, to get this thing to work requires 3 things - proper
hookup, something to sense the output, and something to provide correct
IR stimulation.