Hiding the factory injector pins on a piece ??

Hi All,

I am working on a model that has fairly large factory injector pins marks on a couple of pieces. I have read that you can just fill and then sand them away. I have tried using the infamous green putty and super glue as a filler and so far I have not been able to hide the injector pin marks. Am I doing somthing wrong? Is there a better way?....thanks

Mangry

Reply to
Mangry
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If you use gap filling super glue to fill, you must sand it immediately after it solidifies. After an hour or so, it becomes harder than the surrounding plastic, and will leave a bump when you try to sand out the whole area. On the plus side, it adheres very well, better than solvent-based putties, and you don't have to wait overnight to continue working. GPO

Reply to
Lafimprov

automotive spotting putty works well for me. cuts faster than the plastic and does little damage.

Reply to
e

Oh hogwash,

All you have to do is take a sharp blade and carve the stuff. I use superglue almost exclusively and never run into problems shaping it. Most of the time I carve it instead of sanding and it doesn't matter how long I wait.

Jeff IPMS something or other

Reply to
Jeffery S. Harrison

depending on the company I fill them with punch and die cut disks..

The caverns in the rear ramps of Academy's M113 series are the same size as a Waldron #5.

Other than that I use Tamiya Grey putty and a chisel x-acto blade.

This blade , old and no longer sharp makes a good spatula. New and sharp it takes off excess putty since the edges are resting on the kit plastic.

I agree with the others that the super glue trick works too. Mike please remove "diespam" to reply

If you can keep your head when all about you are losing theirs, perhaps you've misunderstood the situation.

Reply to
MLDHOC

If it's depressed area, I use superglue, accelerated with microballoons, then sand down to conform. If it's raised, I dremel b*&(*$^d off then sand by hand to conform.

Mark Schynert

Reply to
Mark Schynert

There is also the old Sprue Goo trick, if you're modeling in styrene.

Chop up old sprue fine, drop into a glue bottle, just covering the sprue with the glue. After a day or so you have goo, with the styrene completely dissolved in the glue. Drop a thin dab on a hollow -- building up slowly if need be (remember, this is glue and can go deep into the part you're working on). When it dries, the glue is gone and the hollow is full of . . . styrene! Ain't that clever? Sands, paints, stains, cuts exactly like the stuff around it.

The real trick is to use goo sparingly, and let it dry thoroughly before taking another step.

Reply to
Charles Fox

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