home photo ectching

Has anybody tried to make a negative for photoetching by printing the image onto acetate?

TIA

Reply to
Yau-Hang
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If the Black parts aren't perfectly solid and opaque, it won't work. Any tiny bit of light shining through will expose the photosensitized metal and you'll end up with a pitted part or even with holes !

I tried printing a transparency on a laser printer. Didn't work. I tried ink Jet

- not opaque enough. I have an Alps printer now. I used Alps transparency. That didn't look too promising. It has tiny speckles in it. I still haven't tried using some smoother material on my Alps. It might do the trick, although the image will be fragile (easily scratched off).

So far the only reliable method I found was to design my artwork then have it printed out on a Phototypesetter (like Linotrionics). I have several places which can do that for me. I would still prefer to do it myself though.

Peteski

Reply to
Peter W.

Yes, you can use the Xerox transparency as the exposure mask (positive or negative, depending on the emulsion chemistry). But, you will be compelled to check that type transparency on a light table -- and be prepared to do a lot of touchup work with an opaque pen to eliminate bleed through and 'specks' that often result when going the cheap route (Xerox, printers, fax machine, etc.).

Recommend you have your negative/positive shot as a proper film with a process camera (old style printing houses -- use your Yellow Pages to find 'em).

If you wish to do it right the first time, check this site out for an intelligent, well presented and informative look at the photo-etching process, aimed at the serious Model Builder.

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Caution: Acid-etching is a complicated process which involves inventiveness, care, and attention to detail. Therefore, acid-etching is not recommended for the average kit-assembler. Many of you are simply not ready yet. I'm so Sorry.

David D Merriman lll

Reply to
david merriman lll

Actually, back in the days when I was making jewelry I found acid etching to be boring as hell...dangerous if you didn't pay attention with combinations of chemicals and metals, but boring nonetheless compared to other techniques I was using at the time.

Anyone with some simple artist's skills can do it, IMO...especially if one has a computer, scanner, and a good drawing package like Photoshop or even Elements on hand to help with the artwork. Just remember to sweat the details at all times and go for it, Peteski.

Reply to
Rufus

Thanks, but I wasn't asking... :-) I'm also glad that David thinks so highly of himself. I have been etchin' circuit boards for over 20 years and I have also etched many brass and nickel-silver model parts. I even do double sided etchings. That way, I can get some relief (pun intended) !

Corel Draw is my favorite graphic program. Have been using it since Version

3 hit the market in the early 90's. I ahve also used AutoCAD 12. And as I said, I'm looking into using Alps printer for one-of-a-kind short runs masks.

Cheers ! Peteski

Reply to
Peter W.

We all are. He's a legend in his own mind......

Reply to
Al Superczynski

There is also the photoless photoetch, using toner transfer system. It works, but not as well as true PE. In the toner transfer method, you print with a laser printer (or copy using a copy machine) a printout on special paper. Then, you place the toner side against the sheet metal, and iron the sheet. The toner comes off on the metal, and acts as a resist.

I cannot keep from getting slight smudges and widening of the lines, so I cannot get as fine a detail as true PE does, but it is okay for larger parts with only moderate detail.

Reply to
Don Stauffer

i have learned not to mind my own legend. i wasn't there, it wasn't me, and i was just following orders....honest.

Reply to
e

I use Press N' peel Blue from Tecknics

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This is an excellent toner transfer method - just print the pattern (PE or PCB traces) in a laser printer and iron them onto a PCB or brass sheet. While the results may not be as fine as photoprinting onto a sensitised sheet of copper, the process is much, much simpler.

I can get 10mil PCB traces easily, and I recently made a set of 1/1000,

1/1400 and 1/2500 scale PE figures using this method. The 1/1000 and 1/1400 scale figures came out well, the 1/2500 are indistinct, but I could improve them all with some effort (this was a first attempt):

http://149.142.139.138/Web/Pub/PEfigs/1000.jpghttp://149.142.139.138/Web/Pub/PEfigs/1400.jpghttp://149.142.139.138/Web/Pub/PEfigs/2500.jpg

If you're only interested in making PCBs, you can use cheap "clay" coated paper from Staples to transfer the pattern to a PCB. Thomas Gootee has an excellent description of the process:

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As far as etching - Ferric Chloride is so early 20th Century - leave that to Cargo Cultists and other primitives. Use either ammonium persulfate or sodium persulfate. Both form a clear solution that isn't as hazardous as ferric chloride and they do not stain.

Even better than the persulfates (which can be expensive, difficult to obtain & store) is the "ultimate" etching solution.

This solution is typically composed of 1 part 33% - 37% HCL ("muriatic acid" or pool cleaning acid) to two parts of 3% hydrogen peroxide (from the drug store). Not only is the solution clear, it etches quickly and it's ** DIRT CHEAP **. It can be "recharged" by bubbling air through it, so technically you never have to throw out your etching solution. If you want more details, search the Yahoo homebrew PCB group:

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I made the PE figures mentioned above as part of a test of this new etching method. PCBs came out very well, too, with precise and even etching.

Frank

Reply to
Frank Henriquez

That's one of the things I've been wanting to get hold of but haven't yet - an ALPS printer. Yup...you got the skills and the equipment alright!

Which gives me an idea...you might want to try printing your artwork using one of the ALPS foil carts. Just an intuitive guess on my part that the foil print may be more opaque than one from a plain black ribbon. Sort of like masking a canopy with foil. Don't know if you can print with ALPS foils on a transparency or not...

Checking a test print of a small piece on a light box (something else I've been meaning to make...) should tell the tale...I'd be interested in what you find out.

Reply to
Rufus

I haven't had a chance to play with any of this stuff yet. Been busy printing decals and DyeSub Photos !

You have a pretty good idea. I was also thinking about printing the image several times (in overlay mode) to make it more opaque.

Looking at the ink ribbons themselves, they are all somewhat transparent. Even the foils and metallics. I could also try printing black first, then Silver foil on top of it. So many choices - so little time.... :-)

If I ever do get to experimentiing with this I'll post my results here.

Peteski

Reply to
Peter W.

I'll be watching - I'm with you; too many projects, no time. I've just started playing around with 3D animation...very addictive. More expensive electronic toys to buy now...

Reply to
Rufus

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