Wiring/Detailing Radial Engines

Does anyone know of an online article, that gives a nice step-by-step guide to wiring/detailing radial engines, such as in 1/48th scale?

Reply to
Greg Heilers
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Are you looking for how-to as a scale model, or data on prototype, as in wire harness arrangement and such? I don't recall exactly articles on step-by-step stuff, but there are a lot of photos and diagrams on the engines themselves.

Most all radials from thirties on had dual ignition (two plugs per cylinder) and a metal harness from which each plug wire emerged and went to cylinder head.

Personally, I have a spool of fine copper wire that I unwound from an old TV transformer. I paint that the appropriate color and use for plug wiring. Many unshielded plug wires used a tan or buff color. shielded ons either were a silver/aluminum color. Shielded plug wires came along when planes started all carrying radios, so only quite early ones were the tan color.

Reply to
Don Stauffer

I am looking for examples, hints, tips, etc. on doing such detailing, from other modelers. Like you said, the information on the genuine article is readily available - but transposing that to a model can utilize many different techniques.

Places such as Michael's and/or Hobby Lobby sell different gauges of copper wire, by the spool, in their "beading" section.

Reply to
Greg Heilers

Greg Heilers wrote: : : I am looking for examples, hints, tips, etc. on doing such detailing, : from other modelers. : You may want to look at car modeling books, particuarly regarding super detailing the engines. The techniques should transfer readily.

Bruce

Reply to
Bruce Burden

Thanks Bruce! I did not even think of that! (Slapping my forehead, realizing I could have had a V-8...Cool! Unintended pun!...lol.)

Reply to
Greg Heilers

The only problem with that is that cars are 1:24 or 1:24 scale, and even so, in my judgement, frequently use too large a wire gauge. They typically use insulated wire, which does not come in small enough sizes. In my experience better to have wire a bit undersize than oversize. Enameled bare wire comes in very fine gauge. I think the stuff I salvaged from a transformer is about 32 or 33 gauge. The enamel coating makes painting easy. Most bare wire for electronics work is enameled. The stuff in craft stores is usually not.

In a related problem, my pin vise will not tighten on very small drills much smaller than #70. The thin enameled wire I use is smaller than that, so I have to drill a considerably oversized hole. Looking for a pin vise that will accept the small drills.

Reply to
Don Stauffer

I would suggest a different approach. Get drills like this:

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Ebay item no. 140435401614 These drills have a shaft of 1/8 so you don't have the problem with the drills being too small. Please notice that carbid drills are brittle and break quite easy.

PS: No connection with the seller and I bought my set from Micro-Mark and I think the price was half or less.

Reply to
Uffe Bærentsen

Don Stauffer wrote: : : The only problem with that is that cars are 1:24 or 1:24 scale, and even : so, in my judgement, frequently use too large a wire gauge. : I understand what you are saying, Don, but Greg was looking for the techniques. That shouldn't differ significantly from 1:24/5 to 1:48. : : In a related problem, my pin vise will not tighten on very small drills : much smaller than #70. : Look for the Starrett small pin vice. Small Parts out of Florida was where I purchased my Starett pin vices. The small one will clamp down to nothing.

Also, I find that the cheap pin vices aren't cheap, when you start adding the cost of replacement bits to their cost. Most breakage is due to the cheap pin vices not holding the bit centered. A good pin vice should hold the drill centered.

Starretts are good. And, unfortunately, Starrett is proud of their tools. So, you pay for them. Of course, you only pay once...

Bruce

Reply to
Bruce Burden

Yeah, I broke so many that I gave up on that kind :-( I'm looking for a better pin vise, like some of you have recommended.

Uffe Bærentsen wrote:

Reply to
Don Stauffer

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