I'm semi-interested in doing some riveting in brass or styrene, and have been eyeballing the SensiPress with the Riveting Table attachment and dies. I can't quite see spending $100+ for the package, tho.
Does anyone think the Riveter (table and dies) would work with a small, benchtop drillpress, would it be too much of a hassle, or am I just asking for trouble?
-Gerry Leone
Gerry,
I have one of these setups. I cannot see how you would make it work with a drill press. The SensiPress has a weighted hammer that pounds on the die - The Riviter is just the indexing table. It does work as advertised, and I can make consistent rivets with it. One problem is that there is no 'guide' and when you clamp material to be riveted to, you have to really work at lining up the material. I have scored a line to assist setup on my indexing table. The tool is pricey, but it does the job. I have used it to put rivets in the flange of a styrene rib for a Milwaukee composite gondola and the new piece matches the originals very good. Another tool you might want to look at(it gets pricey) is the Micro-Mark precision drill press and the X-Y table for it. I have been using it to make drilling templates for things like grab iron. You could also make rivet impressions by building a 'stop' for the downward motion - the thing really can produce perfect holes - But it is about $300 by the time you get the drill press/X-Y table/vise for the unit. BTW, did you get any diagrams or info for you brake set? I may have some diagrams around I can drop off at the TCD meeting Thursday if you plan to be there. I plan on attending if the weather is OK(75 mile drive up to there from Rochester). Let me know, and I will bring along a copy. Are you looking for something like a box car, or weird stuff like the plumbing on a covered hopper?
Jim Bernier
As best I can tell it SHOULD work. You'd need to get most all the side to side 'slop' out of the drill press spindle for the punch and die to align correctly and repeatedly. Depending on the drill press that might, or might not, be an issue.
The other issue would be the force of impact. That has a *LOT* to do with the rivet impression made. You'd need either a very good 'hand' on the downfeed, or some device to give a consistent force to the downfeed handle.
Many commercial model rivet embossers have a small weight, dropped from a preset height, to achieve uniform impacts.
Also, thickness and hardness of the material being imbossed will have a big effect. Some practice is in order with ANY such device.
You also need a good method of spacing the rivets. The X-Y table NWSL provides is ONE way. Careful advanced layout with scribed (or similar) indicating marks is another. Some of the rivet DIES have an outside diameter chosen so the wall thickness is the desired rivet spacing ... just slide the previous rivet dimple up against the side of the die and make the next imboss. Fast and simple, as long as you just want a straight line of rivets (common).
Dan Mitchell ==========
Gerry wrote:
(snipped)
Do you have a newer model of the Sensipress that works like this? I have an older one, and it does not have a "weighted hammer". My press forces pressure downward with a lever attached to a gear. The Sensipress itself is designed to remove wheels, gears and shafts so I cannot see how a weighted hammer would be very delicate.
I did see a home made rivet tool in MR many years ago, and it did employ a weighted hammer.
Bob Boudreau Canada
Bob,
My unit is like yours. It has the 'handle' - I found that lifting and dropping it produces the best results in styrene. I have made some clamp-on weights I use so that the impressions are uniform. I can use hand pressure, but it is possible to have uneven rivets - so I experimented with the weights. And yes, I got the idea from an old MR article!
Jim Bernier
The "Graskop" Rivet Tool, which I have been making for over 30 years, uses a 'drop weight' to strike the punch. The drop weight runs on a calibrated column with a lockable collar to ensure consistent rivet impressions. The anvil is located in the base of a heavy steel frame to ensure that everything stays properly aligned.
Railfan wrote:
I sure wouldn't mind a "commercial" if you care to put a web address or any additional info on this right here on this message board. I'm curious as to price, availability, shipping, and specs!
-Gerry
Huh huh...huh huh huh huh. You said "mount".
All fours.
Seriously, I was thinking of the same thing. The only thing I could come up with is that the front edge of the Riveter table would be the limit.
I'm thinking of two Riveters, one turned 90 degress. The front of the new Riveter would have to raised up to hold the bottom riveter part at the right height, sort of L shape viewed from the side. Then you'd at least have limited motion from front to rear, enough to do maybe 1" to 2" parallel rows of rivets without huge headaches. Due to the length of the arm on the Riveter, you don't have a lot of room to work with.
BTW, for those who haven't figured it out, the secret is 1/4-20 rod. 1" / 20 = .050" on one turn of the knob. Now draw up a plan, machine some aluminum bar stock, and go into business with your new improved X-Y Riveter.
Jay CNS&M North Shore Line - "First and fastest"
I revently made a decision to 'retire' from making both the 'Graskop' Rivet Tool and the 'Graskop' Resistance Soldering Unit. (I have got a possible replacement to make and sell the RSU). I have only ever made them to order in limited quantities - more as a service to the hobby. Shipping overseas tends to be expensive, although I have done so in the past.
For interest the cost of the 'Grakop' Rivet Tool is 33 GBP with one anvil and punch. Extra anvils and punches at 6.50 GBP. The diameter of the head and the spacing needs to be specified (in full size terms).
Gerry Le>
As anyone, who has tried it, will attest; rivet detailing is tedious. Over the years many solutions have been offered, from pounce wheels to sewing machines. Most drill presses are awkward in use due to feel. Although a depth stop can be used to set rivet size with proper backing material, alignment and spacing require a guide fence and a screw adjusted feed.
Male and female dies produce the most consistent sizes, when used with controlled pressure. The NWSL matched dies make very consistent sizes, but range is limited.
Mounting the Riveter would require a deep throat on the press plus screw holes. Mounting the female die would require machining a bushing to hold it in the base plate.
For some different approaches and ideas including modified dies for spacing, see the first site below. There is also and item on the construction of a guide fence for the NWSL Riveter table.
Hope this helps.
Thank you,
Budb
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