Generator wiring

Gents,

Can someone point me in the direction of a website which shows diagrams for wiring up self exciting gennys?

Or maybe someone here can help...

The alternator has terminals marked: ac (yes I know they will be the output ;-} ) A, AF L and MF

Looking at what little wiring diagram I have got it looks like MF and A go together (Via a rheostat?), and AF and L go together (via some sort of voltage regulator to control the aux field windings)

Unfortunatley the regulation bits are missing, so I will have to try and make them up, Any ideas?

Andy G

Reply to
andy G
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Gents,

Can someone point me in the direction of a website which shows diagrams for wiring up self exciting gennys?

Or maybe someone here can help...

The alternator has terminals marked: ac (yes I know they will be the output ;-} ) A, AF L and MF

Looking at what little wiring diagram I have got it looks like MF and A go together (Via a rheostat?), and AF and L go together (via some sort of voltage regulator to control the aux field windings)

Unfortunatley the regulation bits are missing, so I will have to try and make them up, Any ideas?

Andy G

Reply to
andy G

In message , andy G writes

Has this device got a maker's plate of any sort? What sort of output has it got, i.e., is it a 12V or a 110 - 230V machine?

Regards

Pete

Reply to
Peter Scales

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Reply to
old_engine

Peter,

Its a 240v single phase 1.5Kva alternator

Cheers

Andy G

Reply to
andy G

Peter,

Its a 240v single phase 1.5Kva alternator

Cheers

Andy G

Reply to
andy G

Does it have a blue socket anywhere? Rewiring and putting 240v on a yellow socket would be very dangerous. The two don't mate for obvious reasons. You could of course permanently wire to to 240v and fit a blue socket.

The 240/110v switching is normally just a case of series(240) or parallel(110) connection of the windings.

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

There is no blue socket just two yellow ones ( one on either side )

Reply to
The wild eye

Well change one to blue and wire that to the switching such that it gets

240v and wire the yellow one such that it gets 110v and Robert is your fathers brother.

I'd be inclined to chnage the one that doesn't have the exhaust firing at it if 240v use is going to be the norm.

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

Robert may well be my Aunty's husband but I believe that this machine was originally produced with two yellow sockets .

Changing one to blue would be like painting a Lister D pink .

What I need to know is the wiring diagram so I can put it back in its originall state ie switchable between 110v and 240v

Reply to
The wild eye

If it ever had a 240v outlet it would have had a blue socket. The physical construction (pin layout in relation to the keyway) of blue and yellow sockets is different so you cannot connect 110v stuff to 240v or vice versa. To make the gen have 240v on a yellow socket would be rather unsafe.

Maybe the switch is non-orginal and did arrange the dangerous application of 240v on a yellow socket?

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

Reply to
campingstoveman

I also agree that the standard is blue and yellow for different voltage but this looks genuine to me

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The two yellow sockets look like they have allways been there and so does the switch

Steve

Reply to
The wild eye

The four leads from the generator internals are the outlets of two windings.

The two loops of wire, one brown and one blue are putting those two in parallel to give 110V.

To give 240V, you need to take BOTH loops off the terminals and connection ONE loop between the two middle terminals. The outer pair will then give 240V.

You can wire each of the two Yellow sockets to either of the two outer pairs of terminals, and the 240V socket would go across the outer pair.

Start End Start End X X X X

| 110V |--Link-- | 110V |

------------240V--------------

Note that for parallelling at 110V for full output, the two starts and the two ends MUST be connected as per the original photograph.

As it stands above, the two 110V sockets will have 240V across the outer pins of each, not a big problem but worth mentioning.

If you take one of the 110V sockets out and put a 240V socket in, I can send you a connection diagram of how to wire it up with a change-over switch.

Peter

-- Peter A Forbes Prepair Ltd, Luton, UK snipped-for-privacy@easynet.co.uk

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Reply to
Prepair Ltd

There doesn't seem enough ways on the switch to do the series/parallel switching even if you only switch the little jumper wires and ignore the little problem of 240v on a yellow socket.

What is that blue button for at the bottom and the rather iffy looking soldering. On the LH side there is a bit of wire floating about with a black blob on the end then thin bit of wire to the chassis? Is that a fuse there appears to be something genuine on the other side in a blue tube.

I assume you've tried googling on any makers/badge name and/or model numbers etc for the alternator alone or set as a whole.

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

Taking the terminal block as viewed in the picture (No 2)

Label left to right A B C D

A and B are one winding C and D are the other.

The switch is 'probably' a double-pole change-over with 6 connections.

Centre common 1 Centre Common 2 Outer N/C 1 Outer N/C 2 Outer N/O 1 Outer N/O 2

Make sure the switch contacts are handed, ie all the 1's are on the same side!

Each socket:

240V L 240V N 110V1 L 110V1 N 110V2 L 110V2 N

Connect winding 'D' to Switch Centre Common 1 and 110V2 L. Connect winding 'C' to 110V2 N, and Switch Centre Common 2. Connect winding 'B' to 110V1 L, Switch Outer N/C 1 and Switch Outer N/O 2 Connect winding 'A' to 110V 1 N, 240V N and Switch Outer N/C 2. Connect 240V L to Switch Outer N/O 1.

This disconnects the 240V socket on one pole in the 110V setting, but leaves both 110V sockets fed at half power if 240V is selected.

Peter

-- Peter A Forbes Prepair Ltd, Luton, UK snipped-for-privacy@easynet.co.uk

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Reply to
Prepair Ltd

With each 110v socket connected to each winding individually.

I think more of aproblem will be that only one winding will be loaded if only using one outlet and even if using both the chances of the load being equal (unless you *carefully* join 'em outside) is minimal. I suspect this could put due heat, electrical and mechanical stress on the windings.

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

Thank you Peter I will do that wiring when I have finished laying the

30 flags that my wife bought for me

Steve

Reply to
The wild eye

I have tried googling for some answers but came up with nothing .

The blue socket is an excitation socket

Reply to
The wild eye

???

Could you expand on that answer please?

Peter

-- Peter & Rita Forbes Email: snipped-for-privacy@easynet.co.uk Web:

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Reply to
Peter A Forbes

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