Repairing Cast Iron

Hi all I have began restoring my lister M type.I have removed the hopper, piston, and cylinder, Apart from lots of black sludge there dosent seem to be much wear at all, most of the nuts came apart with a little help from the hot spanner but i am not sure how to repair the frost damage. Having heard of a few methods. I would be very interested in hearing any methods that have been tryed and tested by anyone on NG. Pictures at

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Thanks, Gary

Reply to
gary millward
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Well, there's stitching, chain drilling, welding, brazing, soldering both soft and hard and patching. Having looked again to check I'd remembered where your frosty was, my honest and most reluctant opinion is to advertise for another top end ;o((

The section change at the bottom of the bottom of the crack, the difficulty of the inner surface being the bore and the very definite possibility of warping if brazed or welded to say nothing of the cost of repair likely to be in excess of picking up another cylinder all persuade me that this will be the best course of action.

You might try having it sand blasted (and I do mean sand) along the line of the crack and then filling with a high quality plastic metal. It might well leak, vibrate open etc - but it might not, too, and for the cost of a tub of plastic metal, it might well be worth a try.

Usual disclaimers !

regards,

Kim Siddorn.

Reply to
Kim Siddorn

In message , gary millward writes

Having read Kim's suggestions and looked at the pictures, I can but agree with Kim's assessment and proposed solution.

I used plastic metal quite successfully on a Lister C/S block, but that was in the water jacket, not the bore itself. I used magnetic particle inspection to find the crack ends, stop-drilled them about 1/16" diameter right through the jacket, vee'd out the crack about 3/4 thickness with a cut-off disc in a 4 1/2" grinder and filled with plastic metal. Obviously the stop-drilling and grinding out is unlikely to be of use at the barrel flange end of the crack in your case, because of the involvement of the bore. From the first photo it's hard to see where the crack ends, but the photo marked "7 of 17" shows more promise.

As Kim says, you have only the cost of the plastic metal to lose if you go that route. I would avoid any heat-related repair process for the same reasons that Kim gives.

I have two more Lister C/S blocks to do at some point and am contemplating brazing or welding with a high-nickel rod this time (assuming it's the thin section water jacket only) - anyone tried this?

Regards

Pete

Reply to
Peter Scales

I have found that a spare water jacket cover most often covers the cracked area, and the jacket isn't too thin to take a 1/4" Whit thread, and it looks quite genuine afterwards. They always seem to go in the same place...

Peter

Reply to
Peter A Forbes

OT really - I can't help you with the repair - but what's one of those little crawlers cost to get? I could just use one of those about the place! ----------------------------------------------------------- snipped-for-privacy@boltblue.com

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Reply to
jrlloyd

03/16/05

damage.

mine cost me =A3200 at the sale they occasionally come up on ebay if you wanted one you could contact jean and graham smith they hold a bristol register they are both very genuine and helpfull someone on the register may have one for sale theyre on the web

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or email

snipped-for-privacy@bristol10tractors.fsnet.co.uk=20

regards gary

Reply to
gary millward

Thanks for the advice gentlemen. I think i'll try and get my hands on another cylinder jacket, and have a go at a repair at a later date.

The bristol crawler can cost from around =A3200 upto above =A31000 for a restored one. They occasionally sell on ebay, but you best bet would be to get in touch with the bristol register. snipped-for-privacy@bristol10tractors.fsnet.co.uk They would know of any on the register that are for sale, or you could buy a ransomes crawler they are smaller and are easier to get hold of than a bristol. regards, Gary

Reply to
gary millward

Thanks Gary, very interesting...

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Reply to
jrlloyd

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