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Any old Indian tricks for removing broken studs from aluminum engine head?

I do this a LOT. In fact I just removed a broken stud from a aluminum head last week while it was in the truck. The best rod for sticking to the bolt is stainless. I've tried all other methods and nothing will hold to a hard bolt as well as stainless. While 7018 is ok for this I've found stainless to be better. Mig and 6011 don't hold well enough to get anything but the easiest to remove bolts out.

I just use a 3/32 308L rod for sticking to the bolt. Build up a pretty good pad on there. Then you can switch to 6011 to weld the nut to the stainless pad. It's much easier to get a good weld to the nut with the low flux of the 6011.

Reply to
Wayne Cook
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To return to this topic, first- there are 6 bolts on the intake (and 8 studs for the exhaust) I think I've remembered why welding to the broken exhaust studs didn't ring any bells for me... every time I've seen it tried, the alloys used for the studs became so fragile that the problem became magnified and required grinding past the crystallized bit. And I remind you that while I have a machine, I'm not a welder. I can stick things together but if I need something properly welded it goes to the welder down the street. Brian

Reply to
brian458666

Just when I thought I had mined all the gold outta this vein I stumble back and find more!

Thank you, one and all! I especially thank you Wayne, for the tip about stainless! You're a fine guy even though you won't admit you live in Huntsville .

Vernon

Reply to
Vernon

You're welcome. I would of chimed in earlier but I'm not sure which way I'm going at the moment. Between moving my wife into a trailer next door (from the nursing home), a very busy mower season, and my best hand quitting me right in the middle of it all I've been more than a little stressed.

Reply to
Wayne Cook

I have broken some but not in a long time. I figured that since he got one out so easy the other probably werent that tight either. Just seemd like thy are hell bent on using a welder to do this, not my first choice.

Jimmie

Jimmie

Reply to
Jimmie D

When you've spent three hours to remove 5 broken drill bits and a EZ out on a job that would of taken 5 minutes with a welder you'll understand why. Welding is my first choice and EZ outs are way down the list of options. I see way to many messes where people who first use the wrong kind of EZ out (the spiral type should be illegal to make) and don't know how to properly use one in the first place. They usually come to me after they've made the mess. It would be cheaper to bring it to me in the first place.

Reply to
Wayne Cook

Reply to
RoyJ

I have found that the welded bolt method works the best if you can't get at the stud. The other method I use is to drill the stud and then us a left handed tap on it. Then insert a left handed stud or bolt and turn it out. If the bolt snaps off you can still step drill the bolt up to near the minor diameter of the thread and just pick it out with a sharp pick.

The main thing is not to stick an easyout in it and snap it off. It isn't easy after that unless you have a tap burner or edm machine.

John

Reply to
John

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