The application is to make a turning handle for a vise, of a mild steel rod 9/16 in diameter, and two hard bearing balls 1" in diameter. Obviously, this is not a critical weld and strength requirements are minimal. The most strain on it would be when it falls vertically through the vise screw and is stopped by the screw, the worst outcome is that it will hurt my foot.
So. Is there some way to weld it that would not crack and would hold up?
I think most any way to weld it would work. Also silver , brass , silicon bronze brazing.
Dan
Sure, this should be easy! I'd TIG it, of course. Not exactly sure what to use as filler wire, I don't think it is critical. It might be good to grind any Chrome off the ball if plated, but an actual ball out of a bearing shouldn't be.
Jon
The welders at work do this all the time. 309SS stick and all works well.
I have a set of ball bearings from 2.5 inches on down to 1/2 inch, TIG welded to 3/8 mild steel rods. I use them for dollys or anvils, straightening tubes, hammer forming sheet metal into curves, etc. Haven't broken one yet.
Why don't you tap the balls and thread the rod? I guess you could anneal the balls first to make it easier.
Seems a waste to me when you can just heat and upset the ends of the
9/16" rod
In mass production, this would be welded by spinning the rod very fast, then forcing it against the (stationary) ball. Friction heats it, scrubs away any oxides on the surface, and welds it tight. It'd take some fiddling to get the speed/time/forces right, but it always sounded VERY slick to me. Has anyone here with a VFD lathe ever tried this?
I tried it with a belt-driven lathe, couldn't get the metal red-hot without the help of a propane torch. The pieces stuck together but broke apart easily.
Unless the rod is well and closely supported it tends to bend and run eccentric once the surfaces start to gall together.
I tried it with a belt-driven lathe, couldn't get the metal red-hot without the help of a propane torch. The pieces stuck together but broke apart easily.
Unless the rod is well and closely supported it tends to bend and run eccentric once the surfaces start to gall together.
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You have no idea!
This is actually how the long shafts on many modern day jet aircraft engines are joined. I'm not sure exactly how many are, but I have seen the Pratt & Whitney promo video on this being done on the JT8-217 engine, and was told at the time it was also used on it's little brother, the JT8-D as well.
Theses engines were made famous on the McDonnell Douglass MD-80, and Boeing
727 aircraft.It's really a pretty amazing process.
And P&W has a contract to re-engine the Joint-Stars 135's (aka 707) with the JT8D-219 (19 x 4 + spares). First application of the JT8D to the 707 family.
scott
| >> In mass production, this would be welded by spinning the | >> rod very fast, then forcing it against the (stationary) ball. | >
| >I tried it with a belt-driven lathe, couldn't get the metal red-hot | >without the help of a propane torch. The pieces stuck together but | >broke apart easily. | >
| >Unless the rod is well and closely supported it tends to bend and run | >eccentric once the surfaces start to gall together. | >
| >---------------------------------------------------------------- | >
| >You have no idea! | >
| >This is actually how the long shafts on many modern day jet aircraft engines | >are joined. I'm not sure exactly how many are, but I have seen the Pratt & | >Whitney promo video on this being done on the JT8-217 engine, and was told | >at the time it was also used on it's little brother, the JT8-D as well. | >
| >Theses engines were made famous on the McDonnell Douglass MD-80, and Boeing | >727 aircraft. | | And P&W has a contract to re-engine the Joint-Stars 135's (aka 707) | with the JT8D-219 (19 x 4 + spares). First application of the JT8D to | the 707 family. | | scott
They are going to hang 4 - 219s on the old 707 tankers?? What a hoot! They will probably be able to fill the entire fuse with fuel.
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