Curious 6010 experience today

I went and bought 10# of 6010 the other day for some logging stuff we are doing. Lincoln SA 200. I ran a 1/8" rod at about 120 amps, and it just about vaporized. Kept backing down, and ran it nearly at minimum for that machine, which would be at about 80 amps, iirc. Then, I got out some 7018, not liking what I saw. I had to crank up the 7018 into the next heat range so that I could get an acceptably large enough puddle without the filler appearing convex.

Maybe I need to get the machine checked for out put and performance?

Steve

Reply to
Steve B
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Maybe you forgot to switch to DCEN (straight polarity, opposite of 7018)?

Reply to
Glen Walpert

IMHE, both xx10 and xx18 should (almost) always be run DCRP, reverse polarity = electrode positive.

There are some specialized procedures for root pass only using 7018 (xx(x)18) straight polarity = electrode negative.

xx11 is specified for AC or DCRP, but we know that Steve B has reported good luck with 6011 DCSP on very thin material. (I suspect he would prefer 6013 DCSP for this application.)

6013 (and 7014) can be run AC or DC either polarity with DCSP = electrode negative generally preferred for minimum penetration and preventing burn through.

IMHE, virtually all serious code & procedure work is done DCRP.

Good Luck, YMMV

Reply to
Private

Use quick connects that are color marked with colored insulation tape.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus20786

They are not very expensive. I bought some new ones 3 years ago for $5.95 a pair.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus718

One more plus of quick connects is that you can easily use extension welding cables.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus718

"Steve B" wrote in news:jun69s$gi$ snipped-for-privacy@speranza.aioe.org:

Have you checked that the cables are making proper contact with the stinger and ground clamp? There's probably plenty of different hookups, but sometimes people fix them and don't use, or re-use, copper foil to wrap the bare cable.

Reply to
Sano

Great suggestion. I had the ground quick connect (the kind that uses a tapered plug) on my buzzbox get noticeably warm after welding, and also some random intermittent flakiness with my welds. I figured it might be a bad connection in that tapered plug, and when I took it apart, there was no copper foil used at all. Whoever did the previous "repair" just twisted the conductor back on the sheath and called it good enough.

When I read the manual for the welder I saw the wire tie plus Cu foil method recommended by Miller, and I used some copper flashing I had laying around as a substitute for the foil. Works great now, the connector stays cool, and all I have to blame for my birdcrap welds are the operator.

Jon

Reply to
Jon Danniken

Jon Danniken wrote in news:jv9l3v$3gf$ snipped-for-privacy@speranza.aioe.org:

Ah. Thanks. I worked in a weld shop for a couple of years, and been around plenty of equipment that's rarely eyeballed. Buddy's garages and clients.

Reply to
Sano

Hi Glen, all

Aren't the rods running about right?

You need a lower amps with a Cellulosic. And Basics (including 7018) need a high current.

Reason you get the correct fully-formed weld at lower amps with Cellulosics than with other rod types is that the arc voltage is higher. As power = V*I, you will find that on these low amps you are still on about the same power as for other rods.

This is all about hydrogen levels. High hydrogen raises the arc voltage and makes the arc stiff and penetrating.

etc.

OTOH Basics have a very temperature-resistant coating which likes to be driven hard - and has lower arc voltage - hence high amps.

I found that 6010 and 7018 both seem much happier to me running DCEP. There's some 7016 rooting rods which OTOH are formulated to run best on DCEN and you can see that as being so (thinking of Filarc 56S).

Richard Smith

Reply to
Richard Smith

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