Help with first Aluminum Tig work

I'll be getting all the accessories together by this weekend to start Tigging. I'll practice before the real job, but the job is non critical, so most of the practice will be the job. The basic weld will be a T of 2" square 1/8" wall extruded aluminum. I'm assuming 6061, you can disagree, I'll fold like paper. It will be like a fence rail. A top and bottom with with pickets welded in between the top and bottom. I don't mind a little build up, but I am going to lay this down and install five quarter decking on top. I'll weld all the way around, meaning a butt weld and an inside corner weld. I could easily chamfer the butt weld on one the picket, both pieces would be possible but more difficult.

Is it reasonable to chamfer only one side of a butt weld?

Should I tack it all complete, then go back and finish?

Any better sequence to follow? I would like it flat.

What fill rod material and size is recommended?

What size tungsten?

Should a have a point or ball it?

This is the arraignment of 2" square tube. =========================================== H H H H H H H H H H H H H H H H H H H H H H H H H H H H H H H H H H H H H H H H ===========================================

I'll be using my just purchased Everlast 200DX.

I can adjust frequency from 20 to 250 hz

What frequency is a good starting point?

Cleaning balance 30% to 70%, I'm seeing around 60 to 65%

Is that a good starting point?

Do I want to use pulse?

I'm seeing 15 cfh for gas, I'll need to convert that to Liters per Minute.

Is 15 good?

Here's front panel video, start at 5:00 to see the adjustments.

Thanks, Mikek

Reply to
amdx
Loading thread data ...

I think so .

I would , helps prevent warpage .

I'd use 1/8 or 3/32 4043 . That and 5056 are what I have on hand - you might want to check online for a recommended filler , there are charts that are downloadable .

1/16 or 3/32 , 2% lanthanated or thoriated - don't breath the dust from thoriated .

It'll ball on it's own using AC .

I'd go with 90 Hz , 65% negative and no pulse assuming clean stock .

Might be a bit much if you're using standard collet holders . Too much gas flow can cause turbulence and actually draw air into the arc . Play with it on scrap before you start your project !

I found the hardest was the inside corners . Damn arc wants to wander from one side to the other , and I'm still fighting that particular demon . As a general rule the heat is going to go exactly where you point that tungsten . You'll find it hard to control total heat put into the work at first , but when your bead starts to flatten and flow smooth STOP and let things cool down . DAMHIKT ... Also , cleanliness really is important when welding aluminum , a quick swipe with a SS brush isn't gonna get it . I suggest you watch some of the videos at

formatting link
, Jody has a series that describes what each of those controls do . I learned a lot from watching them !

Reply to
Terry Coombs

Thanks for the input. Mikek

Reply to
amdx

Tube can be 6061 or it's weaker cousin 6063.

6063 is easier to roll into curves.

Aluminum TIG has very low heat distortion.

A general rule when welding rectangular frames. First weld the outside corners. Second weld the inside corners. Third weld the face welds

The 2 most common fillers are 4043 and 5356.

4043 is easy to use and has a better color match for anodizing and polishing. 5356 is stronger and more corrosion resistant.

If you are only welding aluminum for a while, buy a few Zirconiated in

3/32" and 1/8". Lanthanated will also work for aluminum, but can weld steel as well. I like 1.5% Lanthanated tungstens for general work.

Keep a clean block of aluminum or copper to ball your tungsten if it gets lumpy. Switch the machine to DC Electrode Positive, point the tungsten straight down and bring up your heat slowly until the ball forms. Allow to cool slowly.

Ball a bunch of tungstens ahead of time to save time while welding. If you slightly contaminate your tungsten try washing the arc on the aluminum or copper block until the soot stops forming.

For inside fillet welds you will find a higher frequency will perform magic. Try 200 Hz.

I like pulsers, but they will screw up your amperage setting.

Try the pulser settings 45%, 45% and 2 hz to start with and play with it.

15 CFH is around 7 Liters per Minute. So try 5 to 6 with gas lens collet bodies. 7 to 8 for standard collet bodies

Bunch a handful of stainless steel tooth brushes at the weld store.

BTW your amperage would be 1/8" aluminum = 0.125 inches = 125 amps Add 1/3 or 42 for an inside corner for 167 amps. Subtract 1/3 or 42 for an outside corner for 84 amps.

If you use a pulser those numbers will go up a bit. If you run the pulser with a very high pulse rate, like 200 Hz, your welds will be very smoooooth.

Reply to
Ernie Leimkuhler

A bunch of stuff that's getting saved in my welding folder .

Thank you very much !

Reply to
Terry Coombs

Nothing to do with the welding side of this, but...

I was under the general impression that the current pressure treatment formulations basically eat aluminum to pieces, and aren't very kind to steel either. General rule of thumb seems to be heavily coated, or galvinized, or stainless fasteners, and some sort of isolation between the wood and susceptible metals. I used strips adhesive butyl* when I replaced the sides on my trailer to protect all the various bits of framing and brackets that would otherwise touch wood, not sure if something like that would work for you too.

  • Sold in the roofing section but usually used to seal around windows and doors. Comes in a roll about 6" wide, with a peel off layer on one side and a non-stick layer on the other. There is also a butyl adhesive, which doesn't have the non-stick on the 2nd side, and is often used to help seal metal panels together.

Hope that helps, --Glenn Lyford

Reply to
Glenn Lyford

Yes, I'm aware of that. On a previous similar job, I cut sign material (as in political yard signs) to width and used as a spacer between the aluminum and deck material. Although I'm contemplating the plastic decking material this time. Hmm, I just received an order of Peal and Seal, might cut that to width. Thanks, Mikek

Reply to
amdx

PolyTech Forum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.