Is the exhaust pipe of SA-200 pipe threaded?

Got a nice muffler at the farm store. Really makes a difference. (and

5 little baby Leghorn chicks too).

I would like to replace the old, rusted exhaust pipe. Before I start wrestling with it, I wanted to know if it is a regular 1.5" NPT pipe. On the OD, it does look to be close.

So... Is that a NPT pipe thread on it or not?

thanks

Reply to
Ignoramus28444
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If it is pipe thread, you can cut it off perhaps 1/2 inch above the exhaust header. Then using a hammer and punch collapse the remaining exhaust pipe material into itself. That shrinks the pipe and drives it out of the rusty threads.

Paul

Reply to
Paul Drahn

Well, I put some PB Blaster on the threads, I will try to just use a

3 foot pipe wrench after a while. I read some manuals and while they talk about all sorts of manifolds, I think that mine uses 1.5 inch NPT indeed. i
Reply to
Ignoramus28444

There were 2 different manifolds used One had a bolted flange, the other was NPT threaded.

Reply to
clare

OK thanks. The unfortunate truth is that if I try to apply a pipe wrench to this pipe, it seems to collapse where pressure is applied. It became thinner over the years, due to rust.

Any idea what I can do? Cut off to last 1/2" and use a chisel, as another poster suggested? That somewhat scares me.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus28444

Kroil and heat if you want to save the pipe, otherwise just cut it off and if you have a dremel or die grinder with a small cutoff wheel you can make axial cuts inside the pipe just up to the thread depth and use pliers to break out the remains of the pipe.

Reply to
Pete C.

Reply to
RoyJ

Cut it off with a short stub. Then use a dremel or hacksaw blade to cut the pipe through to the threads. If you cut two near each other and one on the opposite side you can usually just take a pair of pliers and twist them a bit and pull them out. Not a big deal if you nick the threads since the taper will still seal them.

Reply to
Steve W.

You will need some finess with the chisel. I'd just heat the crap out of it and try to gently twist it out. If that fails i'd cut it off and try to slit it from the inside so I could collapse it out, and if all else failed, carefully ream or drill it out and re-tap it. If drilling or reaming, plug the manifold going both directions with rag or paper towel, well greased, to catch all the swarf and keep it out of the va;ves. Do not forget to remove before installing new pipe and muffler. In any case, I'd run a tap down the thread before installing the new pipe.

Reply to
clare

Kinda hard to get in with a cutoff wheel, but I've found a metal cutting blade in a recip saw (hand held jig saw) works well

Reply to
clare

Not everyone will have a 1-1/2 NPT tap in their toolbox. I have had occasion to make a thread chase out of a 4-inch black pipe nipple by grinding a flat spot on the threads like the way a self tapping screw is formed. You might even consider hardening it. ____________________________________________________________________ Gardner Buchanan gbuchana(a)teksavvy(dot)com FreeBSD: Where you want to go. Today.

Reply to
Gardner

Have you downloaded the Lincoln manual to this machine yet? There is a LOT of information there, and it's free. It might be one of the ones you have in your big pile, offering for free.

PB Blaster, heat, and slow motion will work the best. If that don't work, cutting it off, and caving it in on itself also works, just be very careful working close to the threads.

Steve

Heart surgery pending?

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Reply to
Steve B

Suggest next time get Buff Orphingtons.

Reply to
PrecisionmachinisT

Ignoramus28444 wrote in sci.engr.joining.welding on Sat, 09 Apr 2011 17:18:12 -0500:

It may help to adjust the pipe wrench so that you get three points of contact. Two jaws, and the back of the moveable jaw. Helps keep the squishing to a minimum.

Reply to
dan

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