Made machine feet for my Bridgeport -- pix and question

If you have movement (not too likely) a jam nut is simple, and perhaps more effective as well.

Add a jam nut to each, after final level is achieved snug them up.

Paul

Paul (and Ecnerwal) thanks. I am not sure if there is clearance for a jam nut, due to nuts having been welded to flat bars.

Good idea Ig and well excuted.

I would use a jam nut...it will hold.

FYI...you may want to use the long all thread coupling nuts next time...it makes the job easier. They are normally used to connect lengths of all thread together. I used them on a similar project and they eliminated the problem of trying to keep a series of smaller nuts aligned while welding.

thanks. I wil try to think of a way to enable me to use a jam nut. Maybe I would use a couple of washers. In reality, I think that I am worrying about nothing and there are no forces that could make the bolts turn in their nuts.

thanks, the ones I saw at McMaster, in that size, were very expensive.

I welded the nuts, with the allthread studs in them, so that they would keep some alignment. Which they sort of did, the studs go all the way in them, but they are tighter than they were to begin with.

By the way, I used a hex collet holder to machine 3/4" hex on the studs (for sockets and wrenches)

I suggest that you add pads, say 6 X 6 X 1/2" steel, spot drilled for your leveling bolts. The way your photos show it you have the machine bearing only on the 1 inch bolts. A bit of vibration and I guarantee that one or the other of those bolts will abrade their way into the floor and ruin your careful leveling. It also helps to place a layer of something between the bottom of the pad and the floor th ensure that the pad bears evenly on the floor, i.e., doesn't just hit the high spots, as it were.

Bruce in Bangkok (brucepaigeatgmaildotcom)

When I did my weight bench, I welded 3/4 hex heavy nuts on square tube, knowing the nuts would shrink from the welding. I just ran a tap through after welding.

Pete Keillor

I do not have one -- but swaRF IS easy to sweep off concrete and vacuum.

...ah but if you are using coolant, it isn't just swarf that the swarf tray collects - been there and got the T shirt !

AWEM

You are located in the Midwest, aren't you?

When I travel to Midwest, I stop and pick up supplies along the trip route at Ace Hardware and TSC stores both of which did have these nuts (1" diameter) in stock and at a reasonable cost. Bear in mind that inventories do change and they may not carry them any longer.

TMT

I would agree with Bruce...pads would be a good idea.

TMT

That current set-up he built is going to just rape his concrete floor. Dave

OK, I found some suitable product, McMaster item 7786T12. These are 2" diameter, 1/2" thick steel bars. I will mill depressions in them, maybe 1/8" deep, that would accommodate the 1" rods tp keep them centered. They cost $2.47 each, which is relatively affordable.

Milling 1 1/6" wide roud holes would ne a nice first application for the rotary table.

That will work, though simply plunging a 1" endmill in the center is quicker.

Gunner, who wonders why you have to level a BP in the first place. All your references will be from the table......

So the bagel doesn't roll off and the coffee doesn't spill

Mark Rand RTFM

That, and also it is nice to use a little machinist level to mount parts in a vise horizontally, knowing that horizontal means they will be parallel to the table..

Um.... Iggy? Do you _really_ rely upon a level to set work parallel to the table?

Um..... they make this little thingy called a "dial indicator" for that work.

LLoyd

He does it that way: Put the magnetic base onto the table, dial indicator in it pointing onto work and move table along X. *DEAD* parallel! :-)))

Nick