Ni55 rod for fire grate?

I have a wood stove with a corner broken off the fire grate . Found a deal for some 55% nickel arc rod , will this hold up to the heat ? Using Ernies advice for pre/post heat and prep he posted after my recent debacle with the motorcycle part ... I do have some regular brazing rod , but didn't think it would hold up to the heat of a nice oak fire . The stove will function , the piece is held captive by the rest of the grate and the firebrick - but I'd still like to repair it if feasible .

Reply to
Snag
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Ni55 rod will work, juts v-grind out the crack, preheat your parts, hammer pean each bead with a small hammer when you stop, and bury in ash, lime powder, vermiculite or fine sand to slow the cooling.

Reply to
Ernie Leimkuhler

Thank you ! Do you recommend short beads so they can be peened while still hot ?

Reply to
Snag

The idea is to peen the welds, thereby pushing the metal down into the weld to reduce shrinkage cracking. So short beads are recommended.

The main principle with all castings (iron, aluminum or bronze) is to try to prevent thermal differentials. You don't want hot zones and cold zones. You want the whole thing warm to start and kept warm as it cools. Short beads means less localized heat.

Reply to
Ernie Leimkuhler

Got it , and thanks for sharing your knowledge .

Reply to
Snag

The last cast iron item I welded with success was a drill press table. I built an oven out of ceramic cloth, the stuff used for making kilns. I basically wrapped the table in the cloth and then heated to almost red hot with a weed burner torch. After welding I completed the wrapping so that it was completely covered. It took hours to cool. And no cracks. Eric

Reply to
etpm

I'll either stick it in a wood fire or use one of my forge/foundry burners . Wood fire has advantages , like free fuel and using the fire to post heat and cool off . It has disadvantages too , like being a ways from the welder .

Reply to
Snag

I think heating in a reducing atmosphere is probably good. Just so long as you get it hot. I have brazed and welded cast iron many times and the only times I have had it crack was when I didn't pre-heat and cool slowly.

Reply to
etpm

If the weather turns off really cold this repair might just have to wait until spring . Stove is functional with it as-is , and this will be the primary heat source for our new "home" this winter . We have GOT to get more room than we have in this 25' camping trailer or one of us is going to kill the other . Toss-up which way that could go ...

Reply to
Snag

If you can't use Oxy/Acetylene and cast Iron filler, Ni55 is probably the next best thing. Pre- and post-heat, peen, slow cool...

Reply to
rjlinn

Well , I do have OA , but no cast iron filler ... Hadn't thought about it , guess it's worth checking into . Got all the rest covered . -- Snag

Reply to
Snag

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